Splendido and Splendido Mare in Portofino, Italy

Portofino, the jewel of the Italian Riviera, is a tiny village on the Gulf of Genoa where local fishermen and their families rub shoulders harmoniously with the world’s rich and famous whose million-dollar yachts float at anchor in the picturesque harbor.

The little town with its busy piazzetta that slopes to the water’s edge looks across the bay to the lovely church of San Giorgio and the imposing Castello Brown. High up over the bay, the 5-star Hotel Splendido reigns supreme over the harbor.

During a visit to the Splendido in 1997, we heard talk about renovations to a little 3-story building that was to become a sort of annex to the main 66-room hotel on the hill. The new annex, which was expected to be ready for guests the following year, was to be known as the Splendido Mare, a luxury boutique accommodation right at the water’s edge with a terrace restaurant extending onto the piazzetta. It was not until May 2002 that we were able to return to the tiny town with reservations for three nights at the Splendido Mare.

Our room at the front of the hotel with its iron railing balcony overlooking the square and harbor was simply breathtaking. Here was the real Portofino — fishermen’s homes on both sides of the harbor with their trompe l’oeil decorations on pastel facades and clotheslines hanging outside windows overlooking sidewalk cafés and strolling pedestrians.

The architect responsible for the renovation of the Mare worked strictly within guidelines set by the Portofino preservation society in order to ensure that the external structure would blend in perfectly with the buildings surrounding the piazzetta.

The hotel’s origins go back to the beginning of the 1900s, when a retired fisherman opened an osteria known as the Nazionale. Four generations of the family built additions to the hotel, and in 1997 the Orient-Express organization purchased the larger portion of the facility.

The inside of the structure was totally reconstructed and renovated, completing 16 bright rooms (including suites) with tastefully decorated interiors, comfortable furniture and all the usual amenities — television, mini-bar, safe-deposit box — all unobtrusively concealed behind handsome cabinets. Large bathrooms with separate toilet and shower stalls and washbasins of Carrara marble are attached to all of the rooms.

During our stay, my wife, Fran, and I experienced the elegance, professionalism and lovely appointments that we had enjoyed previously at the Hotel Splendido, but, because it is smaller, we found the Splendido Mare more intimate than big brother.

From the piazzetta, you enter directly to a small reception desk. Down a couple of steps you have a clear view of the hotel’s restaurant (bar, too), known as the Chuflay, with its broad windows and doorway letting out onto the terrace.

Because of its location right on the square, the Chuflay attracts the yacht crowd as well as guests from the Splendido up on the hill. The menu features, largely, fresh seafood, and if you don’t try the delectable, succulent stuffed Ligurian mussels (€13.50, or near $15) or the Zuppa di Pesce (fish soup), you might as well spend your vacation in Idaho.

The Trenete al Pesto (linguine with pesto, potatoes and string beans), at €15.75, was delicious, too, and I haven’t been able to find it elsewhere in Italy or the U.S.

In the evening, until midnight, the nimble fingers of pianist Giulio ran through Italian and international favorites. After dining, we gathered with other guests around the piano and joined him in song.

On our first visit to the Splendido we hiked along a mountain path behind Portofino to the little church of San Fruttuoso, which can be reached only on foot or by boat. It was a lovely (slightly strenuous) walk with splendid views of the Gulf of Genoa. On our 2002 visit (because we’re getting older now), we took the launch to San Fruttuoso and upon our return drove to nearby Santa Margherita Ligure for a bit of sightseeing in that delightful village.

At a salumeria (deli) on the main square we bought a sealed package of trofie, little hand-rolled pasta which are the greatest accompaniment in the world for a basil pesto sauce. (I might add, they are absolutely unavailable outside of Liguria.)

Hotel Splendido and Splendido Mare are linked by common ownership and management. Separated by only a 10- to 15-minute walk (well, hike), guests from the Mare are able to share the facilities of the big hotel on the hill. Mercifully, a little white van shuttles between the two hotels every 20 minutes.

The larger Splendido is a former monastery and is surrounded by pine trees, olive groves, beautifully maintained gardens and trellised walkways. With its panoramic view, it has to be visited — it is one of the loveliest hotels in the world. We lounged by the warm pool with changing rooms and lockers conveniently nearby. Lunch was served poolside or on the terrace, and there was tennis, a sauna and a gymnasium.

We are duty-bound to report one disappointment with the Splendido Mare. We enjoyed ourselves so much, we decided we would just have to spend another two nights. We thought we might visit the nearby Cinque Terre, the five little fishing towns linked by a pedestrian footpath along the coastline. We also thought we might drive to nearby Camogli, another picturesque town along the gulf, or even bestir ourselves for a short walk in the hills above Portofino. (We had already visited the church of San Giorgio and the lighthouse beyond it.)

Alas, both the main hotel and the boutique annex were booked solid for the next three weeks. With deep disappointment, we packed our luggage, took breakfast on the balcony of our room and left Portofino, vowing to return at the earliest opportunity.

In 2004 at the Hotel Splendido, approximate nightly rates, including half board, are €1,176 ($1,480) for a double with a sea view, €1,200 ($1,510) for a deluxe junior suite and €2,072 ($2,607) for a deluxe suite.

Splendido Mare rates are bed-and-breakfast only and run €563 ($708) for a standard room, €750 ($944) for a superior room and €1,010 ($1,270) for a superior junior suite.

Visit the website for the Hotel Splendido and the Splendido Mare at www.hotelsplendido.com, e-mail reservations@splendido.net or reach them as follows.

Contact Hotel Splendido (Salita Baratta, 16, 10034 Portofino [GE], Italy; phone +39 018 526 7801 or fax +39 0185 267 806).

Contact Splendido Mare (Via Roma 2, 16034 Portofino [GE], Italy; phone +39 018 526 7802 or fax +39 0185 267 807).

ROBERT RICHE
Ridgefield, CT