Parks in Paris

On a visit to Paris in April ’12, my wife, Anne, and I took the Métro to Bercy station and spent a number of hours in Parc de Bercy, comprised of three connected gardens.

The Cinémathèque Française, designed by Frank Gehry and housing a large archive of films, is in one section of the park, and, situated on raised terraces, 21 sculptures make up Rachid Khimoune’s “Children of the World” installation, honoring children’s rights.

The Palais Omnisports arena is also in the park, surrounded on all sides by grass that slopes at what appears to be about 45 degrees. Imagine trying to cut that grass!

From the park, it’s about a half-hour walk to the Bois de Vicennes end of Paris’ Promenade Plantée, or Coulee Verte. Parisians have been enjoying strolls along this elevated park in the heart of the city for nearly 20 years. Running 2.9 miles through Paris’ 12th arrondissement, the park has been acknowledged as the model for New York’s remarkable High Line park.

The elevated Viaduc des Arts, which once supported the Vincennes railway line, is also part of the park, which opened in 1993. The arcades under the viaduct were converted into spaces for art galleries and artisan workshops.

What makes the Promenade Plantée especially impressive is that it is striking from the ground as well, thanks to the rose-pink bricks of the arcade.

The parkway stretches from the Place de la Bastille to Bois de Vincennes. About half the length is on the viaduct, and the rest can be traversed at ground level or on footbridges. The shops below the viaduct’s arches make for entertaining window-shopping.

We walked the entire length of the park and discovered an important feature, from my point of view: there are self-cleaning toilets along the route, even at ground level, and they are free. Oh, to have such facilities in our big cities!

JACK DINI
Livermore, CA