For a trip to India, my partner, Peter, and I wanted more freedom and time in places that intrigued us than a tour would offer, but, although we were healthy 75-year-olds, we also wanted a support system. We found it with Mrs. Hemlata at IATA-accredited Govan Travels (New Delhi, India; phone 011 91 11 23312674 or 23312627). Mrs. Hemlata and I e-mailed for a few months. After we purchased our own air tickets (nonstop from Newark on Continental for $2,377) and insurance and got our visas, she booked the hotels, car, drivers and, where we wanted them, guides. The land price for our 44-day trip, Feb. 1-March 16, 2011, was $12,100 for two. We traveled to Delhi, Amritsar, Agra, Ranthambore (yes, we did see a tiger!), Jaipur, Pushkar/Ajmer, Varanasi, Khajuraho, Udaipur, Alleppey and Varkala. We wired part of the money to Govan in December, to reserve bookings, and part in January. In Delhi, we wired $4,000 to Govan to provide us with rupees, avoiding the inconvenience and charges of repeatedly using ATMs. Every transaction which Govan made on our behalf was itemized. We changed another $3,000 into rupees at our hotels. Mrs. Hemlata arranged for us to get local cell phones and SIM cards so we could call or text each other and our drivers, if necessary. By text, she always confirmed what was next. We had wanted the equal of 3-star European hotels. We got 4- and 5-star Indian hotels, all very acceptable and some downright gorgeous. The Ista, for example, in Amritsar should be a model for hotels worldwide. The design was lovely, and the staff were impeccable in service and knowledge. It was the perfect trip. We had our independence, always had a wonderful (included) “American” breakfast, with eggs, that satisfied us until dinner, and got to know some great people, including guides and drivers. Most of the drivers were limited in their English. Despite Indian traffic being chaotic (there seem to be no rules!), we always felt safe, though I sometimes closed my eyes. I recommend Govan Travels. The special touches, such as getting rupees delivered to our hotel room and being able to attend an Indian wedding, were above and beyond the call of duty. RITA IRONS New York, NY
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