Travelers to Italy looking for a trattoria near the Milan train station can go with confidence to Trattoria La Baita (phone 02-6694173), just around the corner from the station at Via Lepetit 27, corner of Via Vitruvio. On the night we were there in October ’04 it was a cheerful, bustling place without any loud, obnoxious Americans. (Oops, showing my prejudices a bit there.)
The risotto alla campagnola took less than 17 minutes to arrive, so it could not have been made from scratch, but it was might tasty all the same. The gnocchi with sage butter melted in my mouth. With those two dishes, two salads, wine, mineral water and coffee, we escaped for €36 (about $48).
MICHAEL MAHONEY
San Francisco, CA
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