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March 2011

03

West Papua with Okale

I first traveled to West Papua, New Guinea, Indonesia, 19 years ago when it was called Irian Jaya. I hiked steep trails to villages, slept on the floors of longhouses in headhunter/cannibal territory and wondered at the never-ending variety of penis gourds that were the dress for men, complementing the women’s grass skirts.

In June ’10 I traveled to West Papua with a friend. Perhaps not surprisingly, I discovered that it has made tremendous strides in catching up with the “modern” world in the intervening years.

Apartment rental tips

In the last three issues, we printed subscribers’ advice on renting apartments outside of the US. This month we lead with some practical advice by a reader followed by appraisals of specific apartments. We’ll do the same next month.

Tivoli’s Villa d’Este

On our way to a week in Umbria in September ’09, my husband, two friends and I debated descriptions of the various villas along the tourist trail and decided on a visit to the Villa d’Este (Piazza Trento, 5) in Tivoli, ground central for villas.

We made our way to the center of the city and discovered that we were practically at the doorstep of Villa d’Este. (Entry, €10 [near $14] adult; closed Monday.)

Mostar pension

When our group of 12 reached Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina, during ElderTreks “Adriatic Adventure” tour in September 2010, half of us had the pleasure of staying at Pension Botticelli (Muje Bjelavca br. 6, 88000 Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina; phone +387 36 319 057 or 63 890-658), just a three-minute walk from Mostar’s Old Town.