Getting around in Dubai

By Nancy Norberg
This item appears on page 14 of the May 2014 issue.

My husband, Ed, and I stayed in Dubai for four days in April 2013 before embarking on a cruise.

With a population of 400,000, Dubai is one of seven emirates that comprise the United Arab Emirates (UAE). The official language there is Arabic, with English as the secondary language. The signage throughout the city of Dubai was in both Arabic and English.

First, we want to reassure visitors about safety while visiting Dubai. The UAE is acclaimed as one of the safest countries in the Middle East. We felt very comfortable walking around in the city of Dubai both day and night. There was a large police presence, and every mall had private security. It was comforting because everyone we encountered spoke beautiful English and was very willing to give directions.

The other point we’d like to address is appropriate dress. Most tour books advise that when touring countries in the Middle East, men should not wear shorts, and women need to wear scarves on their heads and long-sleeved shirts, with long skirts or trousers that cover their ankles. Dress restrictions did not seem as strict in Dubai as they can be in some other Muslim countries, but, as when traveling anywhere, a degree of modesty and respect should be the guiding force.

While in Dubai, Ed wore khaki pants and long-sleeved shirts. I wore loose-fitting cotton or linen long-sleeved shirts and pants. But the clothing choices we made were also because of the heat and sun. 

Out of respect for Islamic practices, I always carried a large scarf. This served as a shawl for cooler evenings, and it could easily be placed around my head, hair and neck when entering a mosque. Of course, people always remove their shoes before entering a mosque. (I would advise anyone who finds it difficult to remove their shoes to wear slip-on shoes to Dubai.)

Upon our arrival, we exchanged money at an airport ATM, which was convenient and provided a favorable exchange rate. (While traveling, especially overseas, we use a Fidelity debit card that has no exchange or other fees and reimburses you for any transaction fees charged by the disbursing bank.) The exchange rate at that time was $1=AED3.67. (To estimate the US dollar equivalent, I simply divided the cost of an item or service in dirhams by four.)

With regard to transportation, Dubai’s city buses were clean, air-conditioned and cost two to six dirhams (54¢-$1.60). However, unless you have to conserve money, you may want to avoid them because they are not convenient. I found it tricky getting on and off them and determining the right bus stops. 

The Metro was new, and the track was pretty much one long line running parallel to Sheikh Zayed Road (a major artery in Dubai). Basically, all you needed to do was decide which direction you wanted to go, then stand on the right platform. The platforms were well signed, and a TV screen showed you how long until the next train was due. An announcement would be made as the train arrived, so listen for it, as the doors didn’t stay open very long.

Buying a Metro ticket was easy, especially when you did so at a ticket booth. Most staff spoke some English. Be sure to explain exactly where you want to go to ensure you get the correct ticket.

Most taxis are government-licensed and so are metered at the same rates. All official cabs in Dubai are easily identifiable, with cream-colored roofs. The concierge or hotel doorman can explain the various cabs and the approximate fares.

In town, taxi meters start the flag drop at AED3. However, if you catch a taxi at a hotel, the flag drop can start at AED6. Ask the doorman to check before you get in.

We recommend you carry a card from the hotel with its address so that when you return, you can show the card to the driver. Be aware that taxi drivers do not chat or talk with passengers.

Also, drivers can be fined if they let passengers off on the left side of a street, into traffic. Most keep their left-side back doors locked.

Finally, keep a handful of small-denomination notes with which to pay drivers. Drivers will not break large bills and may think you’re giving them the extra dirhams as a tip.

Most visitors to Dubai will say this city is not an understatement. It’s been called many things: “the adult Disney World,” “over the top,” “opulence to the nth degree,” etc. Although it’s difficult to find the best words to describe this city, Dubai is certainly well worth a visit, if only for its architectural wonders.

NANCY NORBERG

Charleston, SC