Two weeks in Mongolia

I was checking in for my Air China flight from San Francisco to Mongolia — the only Westerner in line — and the reservation clerk seemed very concerned about my beat-up passport and lack of a visa (which is not required for US citizens in Mongolia).

After waiting through several consultations, I finally succeeded in getting my boarding pass. This was the start of the June 29-July 13, 2011, journey that took me to Chinggis Khan country.

Mongolia’s capital, Ulaanbaatar (UB), shows evidence of past communist influence and is a work in progress. A dozen or more cranes lurked above the city, along with modern structures and uncompleted Russian block houses hiding the old, ill-kept traditional buildings. There was no consistency.

I was not there to spend time in UB, however, but to get out to the countryside, the mountains, the meadows and, above all, the Gobi Desert. I was part of a group of six on Explore Worldwide’s “Land of the Great Khan” tour. It was a compatible group with a knowledgeable tour leader.

The itinerary, pretty standard for travelers at that time of year, included Ulaanbaatar, Hagno Khan, Karakorum, Saikhan Ovoo, South Gobi and Dafanzadgad.

We left UB on a sturdy, 15-passenger Russian bus, bumping our way to the most basic of five ger camps we would stay at. However, it was one of the best located, situated in the mountains. The air was clear and the scenery was awesome.

With felt covering a rounded, lattice-like wooden frame and waterproof fabric covering it all, a ger is portable. Each was set up for 2-person occupancy, with comfortable beds. Several that I stayed in had wood stoves. Two had electricity; otherwise, it was candle power.

Two of the ger camps had buildings with toilet and showers. The rest had shower-gers, with water heated by wood stove.

At this camp at Magno Khan Mountain, we spent one day on a 10K hike, walking at least three kilometers up into rocky passages before struggling down a more graduated path. On both evenings there, several of us clambered onto nearby rocks to watch an astounding sunset.

Our next stop was Karakorum, Mongolia’s ancient capital, which was in much need of restoration.

Equally significant was the nearby Erdene-Zuu Monastery, established in the 1500s and now a museum. The practice of Buddhism is returning to Mongolia, so the monastery is being restored, albeit slowly. There was also a beautifully executed new museum focusing on Mongolia’s history.

In the windy, cold and wet weather, we struggled toward the Gobi Desert, the bus overheating several times as we traveled through the barren landscape, finally reaching the Flaming Cliffs, an area where Roy Chapman Andrews found dinosaur eggs. Two ger camps and several villages later, we were on the Gobi, which was dotted with scrub surprisingly green from the rains.

We hiked in Gobi Gurvansaikhan National Park, where we went in as far as the glacier. Following another path into the rocks, we were slowed by a second glacier. Flora and fauna abounded, keeping the photographers busy.

After a flight back to UB, we went on to spend several days at Jalman Meadows, a transition zone between the steppes and the forest. Though much of the countryside so far had seemed quiet and peaceful, the wilderness of Jalman Meadows was most serene.

Several members of the group took the opportunity to ride horses, and we all went on a yak cart ride across the river.

Throughout, we passed nomads and their livestock. I have never seen so many free-running horses. Sheep, goats and cows populated the landscape, blocking traffic, such as it was. We seemed to be in another era.

Then we went back to UB for the Naadam Festival, a yearly celebration of wrestling, archery and horse-riding skills. The city was crowded with both Mongolian and overseas visitors.

The opening ceremonies on the main square had a heavy military and political presence. The Olympic-type proceedings continued in the main stadium, with performances by bands, drill teams and gymnasts before the large, enthusiastic audience. By the afternoon, wrestling was taking place in one stadium and archery in another.

The audience was of as much interest, to me, as the performances. Clothing ranged from the traditional tunics and sashes to modern T-shirts and microminiskirts. Concessionaires were everywhere, and the atmosphere was like that of a state fair.

Horse racing took place on the second day, in a lovely venue of grassy hills way outside of the city. Though we left early, we were on the road with hundreds of others. I have never experienced such a traffic jam; a 4-lane road became 11 lanes of vehicles all going the same way. Police efforts to corral the chaos were unsuccessful.

After the race, we returned to UB for the flight home the next day.

The food on the trip was plentiful but basic, mainly meat, rice and potatoes. Mornings were good, often offering cereal, eggs, bread, cucumbers and tomatoes. For lunch, there were sandwiches, tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs and apples or oranges, as we often ate on the run. At night, salad, soup, meat, rice and potatoes were on the menu.

As a non-meat eater, it was difficult for me. Out of desperation, I did end up chewing on some meat, though I ignored the “mystery meat” sandwiches.

The cost of my 2-week tour with Explore Worldwide (Oakland, CA; 800/715-1746) was $3,500. My flight with Air China cost an additional $1,975, which included a hotel stay in Beijing during my long layover.

Overall, it was a good trip, and I recommend it.

JO RAWLINS GILBERT
Menlo Park, CA