European Christmas markets have enchanted me since I bought my first carved wooden nutcracker at one in Nürnberg in 1962 while teaching in Germany. Since retiring, I have gone six years in a row to these festive markets, which are open during the Advent season. On a “Rhine Winter Voyage” aboard AmaCello, Dec. 2-14, 2011, I was there with AmaWaterways (Chatsworth, CA; 800/626-0126).
For my 13-day trip, I paid $1,979 for the cruise, $920 for a 4-night post-cruise extension and $133 for port charges. Round-trip airfare from Seattle was $1,050 on a flight arranged by AmaWaterways, and I truly appreciated flying from Europe to Seattle without stopping on the East Coast.
This marvelous voyage was the best of the six Christmas market trips I have taken! The exceptional Tour Manager Debbie Asayag de Albrecht was polished, professional and knowledgeable and had a sense of humor. The entire crew, from captain to cabin stewardess, was great. All the ship’s staterooms (a suite measured 170 by 255 square feet) had free Internet connectivity.
The itinerary was well designed and included more options than a previous Rhine tour I had taken. Embarking in Amsterdam, we first cruised to Cologne, Germany, where I visited the glorious Gothic Cathedral and later enjoyed the Christmas market.
The AmaCello was scheduled to overnight in Koblenz but altered its itinerary because a 1.8-ton British bomb and a smaller US bomb from World War II had been spotted in the Rhine there (the water level was the lowest it had been in 75 years). Experts safely defused them.
So we had more time in Cologne and soaked in the stunning scenery of the castles, vineyards and quaint towns as we sailed down the Rhine Gorge. We had tours in Rüdesheim, Worms and Heidelberg. Strasbourg, France, was enchanting with half-timbered buildings and the impressive cathedral with its astronomical clock.
Some passengers disembarked in Basel, while 64 of us boarded comfortable coaches for a post-cruise trip to Lucerne and Zürich.
In Lucerne we stayed two nights at the conveniently located, 4-star Radisson Blu. Excellent local guides provided tours, and there was time to explore. I was thrilled to be able to attend concerts at the beautiful, Baroque Jesuit church and also at the famous KKL concert hall. The latter featured the 21st-Century Symphony Orchestra and the 15-member Luzern Boys’ Choir. We even visited the Rosengart Collection of art.
We stayed two nights in Zürich at Hotel Continenal. After a city tour, I explored by foot and tram. In Europe’s biggest indoor Christmas market, located in the main train station, a 50-foot Christmas tree covered with 5,000 Swavrovski crystal ornaments was impressive.
Some of us enjoyed a “singing Christmas tree” concert by a charming, 74-voice children’s choir at an outdoor holiday market while sipping one last mug of Glühwein — a perfect end to a perfect trip!
KATHRYN WHITMER
Bellingham, WA