Azores’ botanical side

I was delighted to read of Randy Keck’s enjoyment of the Azores (April ’09, pg. 72 & May ’09, pg. 75). My husband, John, and I, traveled there March 31-April 6. Azores Express (800/762-9995, www.sata.pt) was our agency also. We paid $1,209 each for round-trip air from Boston, inter-island flights and six nights’ accommodations.

We visited the islands Terceira and São Miguel. We drove ourselves around each with a rented car but didn’t dare try navigating the central portions on our own. The signage was not always clear, and the locals drove very fast for the width of the roads. My husband and I, who are in our 70s, simply pulled off the road to let cars pass whenever there was a line of cars behind us.

The two hotels we used were great choices because of the contrast between them. The Terceira Mar is a 4-star on the oceanfront at the edge of Angra de Heroísmo. The setting was gorgeous, and its location made it easy to get in and out of town in our rented car.

On São Miguel, Hotel de Colegio is a converted convent in the middle of the old area of Ponta Delgada. The location was a little more difficult for driving but great for walking. Parking was available underneath, with an elevator to the hotel.

The places of interest mentioned in Randy’s articles were mostly the same sights we sought. The only sad omission is that he missed the Terra Nostra Garden on São Miguel. It is simply magnificent. As an avid gardener, I was amazed at the variety of trees, flowers and bushes from both temperate and tropical climates that flourish there in weather that never gets too hot or too cold.

Warm and cold streams wander among mossy banks, through a grotto, around palms, flowering azaleas, camellias, clivias, rhododendrons and too many other plants to name. Young folks were obviously having a great time swimming in the large thermal pool; dressing rooms were nearby. Although expensive (€5, or near $6.80), it was well worth it.

On Terceira island, an outstanding addition to our visit was an afternoon “Photo Tour” in a 4x4 jeep with Rodrigo Bento, who owns and runs Temáticaventura-Unipessoal, Lda. (phone +351 962 334 489 or 295 333 724, www.tematicaventura.blogspot.com). We saw the ad for Rodrigo’s company in the lobby of our hotel.

Rodrigo, who speaks excellent English, is a photographer for the local newspaper and loves the outdoors and driving dirt roads. It was great fun winding through little-used trails around the middle of the island, through a forest of eucalyptus trees, cedars, Japanese pines, moss, heather, mint and bunches of calla lilies. There were lovely lakes with ducks and many picnic areas in the magical lush interior.

There were white stucco houses with dark lava windows and outlines sitting in small villages around a church of white and black lava stone.

At the end of the tour (€45 each for a minimum of two people), we parked in the center of Angra and bought pastries in a marvelous bakery that Rodrigo recommended. The small, round traditional pastries have a paste center over a currant crust covered in powdered sugar. Then back we went to our hotel lobby for more delicious pastries and afternoon tea.

LINDA HUETINCK

Alhambra, CA