‘Laid-back’ Zermatt

Zermatt’s beauty and remoteness had entranced me on a visit 25 years earlier, which I made without my wife, JoAnn, so I was anxious to share with her a delightful travel experience on our trip March 9-20, 2007.

Because Zermatt permits no cars or trucks, we parked in a large garage at the train station in Täsch (CHF26, near $25, for two nights) and took the 10-minute train ride into town (CHF31 round trip).

On arrival, I knew right away that Zermat was as beautiful and quaint as ever though with much more tourist activity than 25 years before, of course. It was a beautiful sunny day, and we could easily see Zermatt’s most famous attraction, the Matterhorn.

We took a cab (like an electric golf cart) to the 4-star Hotel Tschugge (phone +41 27 966 4020, fax 966 4025 or visit www.hotel-tschugge.ch), a lovely hotel on the mountainside overlooking the town.

We had a large room with a sitting room and a beautiful view. (2008 winter prices for a double room with half-board, CHF360 [$347], or with breakfast buffet only, CHF290. Summer and fall prices are lower.)

The hotel’s restaurant was outstanding. Our full-course meal with wine cost CHF134 for two.

Another restaurant we highly recommend is Ches Max Julen, in Hotel Beau-Rivage (phone +41 27 966 3440, www.beau-rivage-zermatt.ch), where we enjoyed a superb dinner with wine for about CHF118.

Zermatt is a year-round resort, though the peak season is winter because of the skiing. May is the only really slow month, we learned, with many hotels and restaurants closed. But even nonskiers like JoAnn and myself can enjoy the spectacular scenery, quaint shops, excellent cuisine and a wide range of accommodations, including some 5-star resorts.

There’s plenty to do summer or winter. We started with the Matterhorn Museum (Kirchplatz 11, 3920 Zermat, Switzerland; phone +41 27 967 4100), which is displayed as an archaeological dig and focuses on how people lived in the 19th century. The multimedia show is excellent. Admission, CHF10. Information about the museum, and much more about Zermatt, including hotels, can be found at www.zermatt.ch.

The real appeal of Zermatt is its laid-back ambience. It’s upscale and somewhat expensive, but it’s worth every penny.

BILL KOFOED

Ft. Pierce, FL