Six days in Fiji – enjoying the layover of a lifetime

by Susan Benton, Hermosa Beach, CA

It’s not often when something that seems too good to be true really is that good. In the case of my most recent layover, in Fiji, it was.

With an itinerary that originally included only Australia and Indonesia, my husband, Jeff, and I, on a lark, inquired with American Airlines to see if it were possible to “lay over” someplace interesting en route to Australia from Los Angeles. Not only was it possible, it would require no additional miles to book it.

One 10-hour red-eye flight later, we arrived on Viti Levu, the largest island in the Republic of Fiji.

After a 30-minute shuttle from the airport to Port Denarau, we caught the Yasawa Flyer (phone +679 675 0499, www.awesomefiji.com), a very efficient ferry service that transports passengers to various destinations throughout the Yasawa Islands. Our standard cabin cost FJD110 ($67) for the one-way trip.

After four-plus hours of sailing and many passenger disembarkations at different islands — each more breathtaking than the next — we reached our destination, the island of Yaqeta.

A singular resort

Yaqeta is home to one resort only, Navutu Stars (phone 00679 6640553, www.navutustarsfiji.com). Founded by Italian sisters Giovanna and Maddalena and Maddalena’s husband, Manfredi, the hotel features nine bungalows, or bures, all within steps of the transparent blue, warm waters of the South Pacific. Accommodations range from US$325 to $555.

The resort is nestled in a protected lagoon and is an easy 15- to 20-minute walk from the neighboring village, Vuaki.

Giovanna explained that the family’s original intent was to open a property in Australia, but the weather was so bad at the time of her sister’s initial trip in 2003 that she went to Fiji instead.

Little did she know that a seemingly routine journey on the local ferry service would seal her fate. While aboard the Yasawa Flyer, Maddalena met the chief from a neighboring island, who offered to introduce her and her sister to the Yaqeta chief who, they were told, might be interested in speaking with them about their idea.

“In Fiji, locals own 90% of real estate; therefore, we lease the land from them,” Giovanna said. “The village structure is still very much intact, so it’s important to respect that and go through the proper channels.”

In order to break ground on the hotel, the founders had to seek final approval from the Yaqeta village chief, who was ill at the time, so, while still living in Rome, they worked with the entire village to gain approval for the plans.

After many meetings, some political red tape, negotiations and minor construction delays, Navutu Stars officially opened its doors in December 2005.

Bit of Heaven

For four days in June ’08 we enjoyed the fruits of the founders’ labor, a little alcove of paradise.

Navutu Stars operates in harmony with the local village and customs. The resort employs an all-Fijian staff. They are friendly and helpful and possess an unwavering attention to detail.

The bures are private and romantic and the grounds pristine. The panorama around the resort is a display of untouched, raw beauty, with no development visible on any of the other islands.

The hotel’s fresh, organic menu with an Italian flair was creative and delicious. Our favorite meal was the lobster spaghetti followed by a crêpe with tiramisu ice cream, chocolate and fresh whipped cream. We almost asked for seconds.

While in Fiji, we also ate local food such as we had at a lovo feast, where the food is wrapped and cooked under native leaves and buried underground to steam for hours.

Adrenaline rush

Feeling the need for adventure (and exercise), we decided to do something a bit more challenging than imbibing a “Sunia Special” at the bar — worth every calorie, I might add. We opted for a shark dive (FJ$100-$140, or US$61-$85).

Divemaster Nicko and his team from the family-operated Dive Yasawa Lagoon dive center (phone 679 6662648, www.diveyasawalagoon.com), the latest addition to the Coralview Resort, a popular backpacker destination on the nearby island of Tavewa, have impressively “trained” the local fish to expect the feast that they present each Saturday and Wednesday.

It worked like this: about a mile off the coast, a gaggle of divers descended 60 feet to the depths of the sea to watch as barracuda, tuna and, yes, sharks appeared from the shadows to nosh happily on the easy prey — no, not the divers but the chum that was lowered in giant bins and poured out along the ocean floor. After spotting a lemon shark at least 10 feet long a mere 40 feet away, my ascent to the surface didn’t come soon enough.

Coming up for air

We spent the rest of our time at Navutu Stars doing more relaxing activities. We snorkeled in front of our bure and right off the shore of Vuaki among amazing coral reefs, home to stingrays, giant clams, sea cucumbers, clownfish and anemones. We kayaked around atolls to explore barely inhabited nearby isles, hiked to the top of Yaqeta to watch the sun sink into the golden Pacific, and woke early each morning to greet it again from the hotel’s watchtower.

On Sunday we were invited to Vuaki by Kikao, a local who also waited tables at the hotel, to witness a local church service. (Note: it is taboo to show up to a village uninvited, and it is customary to offer money or a gift to the chief when you do visit.) As we walked through the village, a chorus of lilting voices from the three area parishes filled the air. Afterward, smiling, giggling children greeted us and held our hands, showing us their homes and inviting us to play.

After our fourth day in Yaqeta, we begrudgingly said good-bye to Giovanna, the village of Vuaki and the wonderful hotel staff. A new adventure was about to begin.

Setting sail

As the final leg of our journey would illustrate, on a private boat you can go anywhere without being at the mercy of a group tour or operating hours. Fiji was our oyster.

While a number of companies do offer private charters in Fiji, we explored the islands with our friend Andrew. Our first destination was the eerily inviting Sawilau Caves.

After providing a gift of kava root and gaining permission from the neighboring village chief, we anchored our catamaran in the bay and motored the dinghy ashore.

We ascended a steep flight of rocky stairs into a cavern surrounded by limestone cliffs. After making an equally steep descent down the other side, we dove off the bottom step into the cool waters of the cathedral-like cavern. We submerged tentatively, underwater flashlights in tow, to look for the hidden passageways leading to the pitch-black chambers beyond the main cavern’s walls. Motionless and seemingly suspended in midair, cave-dwelling spiders as large as Jeff’s hand hid deep in the shadows.

At night, as the island bats began their evening flight, we built a fire and made dinner on the shore. On the short cruise back to the catamaran, we marveled at the bioluminescence that twinkled like tiny emeralds as the dinghy disrupted the calm water.

In the days that followed, we stopped to visit the islands of Naviti, Waya and Vanualailai (belonging to the Mamanuca Islands). We snorkeled, kayaked, swam, explored deserted beaches and visited with locals on their respective shores. We saw rainbows stretch clear across the horizon, as if adorning each island with its own special halo. From the stern of the boat, we watched sunsets turn the sky every shade of red and gold.

After three days of sailing, we caught the last Yasawa Flyer from Beachcomber Island back to the mainland. Not too shabby for a layover!