Focus on Archaeology

by Julie Skurdenis

In Lake Mälaren, 18 miles west of Stockholm, Sweden, lies the small island of Björkö. Its size belies its importance in the Viking world of 1,100 years ago. On this island are the ruins of the town of Birka, which, together with the towns of Hedeby in Denmark and Kaupang in Norway, was one of the most important trading centers in Scandinavia during the Viking Age.

Founded around AD 790, Birka was part of a royal strategy to control trade in the Baltic through...

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by Julie Skurdenis

Coudenberg was one of the most important palaces of its time, comparable to the great royal residences in other European countries. On a hill overlooking Brussels, the Dukes of Brabant built a small castle in the 11th century. By 1250 that castle had become their main ducal residence as Brussels emerged as the political center of Brabant in what is now Belgium.

As the power of the dukes grew, especially after Philip the Good inherited Burgundy, so did their...

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by Julie Skurdenis

Most visitors to Dublin wouldn’t automatically link the city to the Vikings. And if they did, it would be the Vikings as marauders and destroyers rather than as anything good.

The Vikings, or Norsemen, first appeared in Ireland at the end of the eighth century AD. In Dublin, they first arrived in 837, reputedly aboard 60 long ships that sailed down the Liffey River. Repulsed, they returned four years later, this time as settlers, farmers, merchants and...

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by Julie Skurdenis

This is a story about Cartagena’s Old Town, perhaps the most beautiful colonial-era city in South America. It’s located in northern Colombia on the Caribbean. Not surprisingly, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

This is also a story that could be told in one word: walk. Or perhaps in a few words: walk, walk and then walk some more. Cartagena, whose full name is Cartagena de Indias, is without doubt a city that should be experienced on foot, not just its main...

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by Julie Skurdenis

Twenty-five years ago I made my first “pilgrimage” to two of Ireland’s holiest places: the Hill of Tara and Newgrange. With me was my newly adopted Chilean daughter, 4-year-old Katie. What Katie remembers from that trip are the sheep nibbling Tara’s grassy mounds and the eerie darkness of the Newgrange tomb.

It was time to update those memories, so, on a trip to Dublin in March ’09, Katie and I decided to revisit both sites.

It’s not easy to see both...

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by Julie Skurdenis (Second of two parts)

Early in our January ’09 trip to El Salvador, my husband, Paul, and I visited four of the country’s major archaeological sites: Joya de Cerén, San Andrés, Tazumal and Casa Blanca. We saved Cihuatán for last.

Cihuatán is special in many ways. It is El Salvador’s largest archaeological site, spreading over an area of more than one square mile. Excavation is currently in progress and, from everything we heard, Cihuatán is destined to become...

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by Julie Skurdenis

(First of two parts)

El Salvador, the smallest of the seven countries comprising Central America, is part of Mesoamerica, the cultural entity stretching from mid-Mexico to mid-Central America.

The earliest hunter-gatherer Mesoamericans migrated from Asia across the Bering Strait probably between 10,000 and 15,000 years ago. By the third millennium BC they had become agriculturists. From that point on, the population expanded, cities developed and...

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by Julie Skurdenis

Over the many years I’ve been traveling, I’ve visited hundreds of archaeological sites around the world, but it was only when I visited the Faroe Islands in August ’08 that the archaeological site — a thousand-year-old Viking farm — was close enough to be my neighbor.

My husband, Paul, and I had rented a house in the village of Kvivik on the island of Streymoy. Looking out the kitchen window, I could see the site. From the living room, there it was. From...

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