Touched by a whale in Baja

By Linda Huetinck
This item appears on page 28 of the June 2015 issue.
A whale’s flukes are as distinctive as a person’s fingerprints. Photos by Linda Huetinck

It was communing with gray whales, not an encounter, and, certainly, the term “whale-watching” could not describe the experience my husband and I had petting and massaging whales in San Ignacio Lagoon in Baja California Sur, Mexico, Feb. 7-12, 2015.

The mother whales approached the boat while carrying their babies on their backs, evidently encouraging their young ones’ curiosity to interact with us. The panga (fishing boat) drivers were very respectful in letting the whales lead the dance.

This practice began 50 years ago when a gray whale swam to the edge of a boat, where two frightened fishermen sat, and they reached out to pet it.

This is said to be the only place it is possible to touch whales, and all of us did so multiple times. The locals regulate the number of boats, the number of people in the boats and the area available for interaction so that the whales are never stressed. Other behaviors of mating, breaching and spy hopping were also exciting to watch.

We highly recommend Baja Discovery (San Diego, CA; 800/829- 2252, www.bajadiscovery.com). The cost of $2,775 per person for the 5-day, 4-night trip covered everything, including the charter flight.

Meeting us in San Diego, Baja Discovery representatives provided transfers throughout, starting with helping us with the formalities of crossing the border into Mexico and to the Tijuana Airport. We flew to San Ignacio in Baja California Sur on Sunday and returned on Thursday, with the charter flight taking 2½ hours heading down and three coming back.

This gray whale allowed us to touch her — Baja California Sur.

From Tijuana Airport, we were driven to the boat for the 20-minute ride to the tent camp. The camp was located on the edge of a bluff in the area of the lagoon where the boats go to interact with whales. Over three days, we set out in the 22-foot fiberglass boats for 90 minutes each morning and again in the afternoon.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner consisted of fine Mexican food augmented by snacks and drinks in the large lounge and dining room tent. We also had a chance to do some kayaking in the mangroves.

Our tent (at 12 by 14 feet one of the larger ones) was quite adequate; it included two cots and a storage trunk. Chemical toilets in an outhouse, a wash kiosk and a shower house completed the campsite.

The staff could not have been more helpful and professional. All of them were passionate about the welfare and conservation of wildlife.

I had worried for years about going, for fear that the impact from tourists would disturb the whales, but I found that worry to be unfounded. We listened to informative evening lectures and learned that the number of gray whales there is now increasing.

It was a marvelous experience.

LINDA HUETINCK

Alhambra, CA