Rating foreign tour companies that customize tours

This item appears on page 47 of the October 2014 issue.

Yvonne Richter of San Diego, California, wrote (Jan. ’14, pg. 29), “My husband, Juergen, and I like to take customized private tours, and we prefer to use tour companies and guides that are local to the destinations. I would like travelers to write in about foreign tour companies and guides they’ve used for private tours, including as many of the following details as possible:

“The name and contact information of the foreign tour company or private guide (location, phone, email and/or URL). A rating from 1 (poor) to 10 (great) plus an explanation of the rating. The itinerary used. Length of the tour (number of days/nights or what fraction of a day). When the tour took place (month/year). Approximate cost of the tour, and what was included. Plus any special or noteworthy experiences of the trip, both positive and negative.”

Responses were printed in the August and September 2014 issues. We have more below, mostly on trips in India, and we’ll have more next month. Each includes a rating from 1 (poor) to 10 (great), for example, [6].

If you are an ITN subscriber with info to share about your experience with a tour operator or guide based outside of the US who provides customized local tours or arrangements, write to Rating Foreign Tour Companies That Customize Tours, c/o ITN, 2116 28th St., Sacramento, CA 95818, or email editor@intltravelnews.com. Include the address at which you receive ITN. Photos are welcome.

 

There are times when I cannot find the itinerary I want or I want to do additional traveling before or after a group tour, so I turn to in-country travel companies to assist me. I have been very pleased with the following companies.

• On a 2013 trip to VIETNAM, our guide was Tony Nong with Ann Tours (phone +84 8 3925 3636, www.anntours.com)

I was met at the border between Laos and Vietnam at Ðiê·n Biên Phu’, and we continued overland to Sapa, the tribal area in northern Vietnam.

We visited villages and markets for several days and then continued by train to Hanoi. 

The trip cost $1,892 and included a car, driver, guide, hotel and a private 2-berth cabin on the train back to Hanoi.

My advice is to keep all paperwork concerning payments with you until the trip is over. Mr. Nong insisted that I had not sent a credit card payment. I was already in transit so had to ask my husband, back home, to go through the paperwork. Once I provided the documentation, all was fine. Because of this, I would rate Ann Tours a [9].

• I used Lao Travel Service Co., Ltd. (08/3 Lane Xang Ave., Vientiane, Laos; phone +856 21 216 603, www.laotravelservice.laopdr.com), on trips to LAOS in 2011 and 2013.

In 2011 I spent 10 days visiting Vientiane and traveling overland to the Plain of Jars, ending with several days in Luang Prabang. The cost was $2,124, including flights to and from Bangkok, a car, driver and guide and a stay at a resort that included an elephant ride.

In 2013 I spent 10 days in Laos doing a 2-day private-boat cruise on the Mekong River from northern Laos to Luang Prabang, then I continued overland to Sainyabuli Province for their annual elephant festival. The cost was $2,612.

Both trips rated [10].

• I wanted to spend extra time in GHANA after a group tour in 2009, so I arranged a 6-day tour with LandTours Ghana, Ltd. (P.O. Box 6094, 199 Soula Loop, North Labone, Accra, Ghana; phone +233 302 761 752 or, in the US, 617/314-7246, www.landtours.com), for extra services. 

The cost of $1,665 included a car and driver, guide, hotels and admissions to museums and parks.

My driver and guide were excellent, and the itinerary was well designed so as not to duplicate anything on the group tour. [10]

• I arrived in SENEGAL 10 days early, before a group tour in 2009, to visit areas in the south and spend a few days in THE GAMBIA. I used Africa Travel Group (Route du Méridien Président x Route Ngor/Almadies, B.P. 8715, Dakar/Yoff, Senegal; phone +221 33 869 79 00, www.africatravel-group.com).

I was very impressed with my accommodations, driver and guide. The cost of $3,054 also included the car, admission to museums and any sightseeing on the itinerary. [10]

• For a 13-day “Great Mayan River Trade Route Expedition” in 2006, I contacted Otupac Tours (APO 32, Santa Elena, Petén, GUATEMALA; phone +502 7823 5843, www.otupactours.com).

I had tried to get on this group tour for several years, but the timing was never right, so the company owner, Ernesto Caputo, offered to do it as a private tour. A friend came with me. 

It is a fabulous itinerary that visits lesser-known Mayan sites, many on private properties in Guatemala. The itinerary also goes into southern Mexico for sites along the Río Usumacinta. [10]

• For numerous custom trips to INDIA, including a 3-week itinerary from Kolkata to Mumbai in 2007 when a group tour was canceled, I have used Swagatam Tours Private Limited (203, Swagatam Chamber, 23-A, Shivaji Marg, Najafgarh Road, Moti Nagar, New Delhi, 110015, India; phone +91 11 2544 4000, www.swagatam.com).

The best part was I was able to tweak the itinerary to my interests — more time at archaeological sites, less time in national parks. 

I used Swagatam in 2005 to visit the Orissa (Odisha) tribal areas and the Sa¯dhu Festival, where practitioners of Hindu are presented with bark to wear as they reach the next level of their spirituality (10 days), Gujarat (22 days), Himachal Pradesh/Spiti Valley (22 days) and Rishikesh, with a stay at the Destination Spa Ananda (www.anandaspa.com) in the Himalayas (8 days). 

In addition, Swagatam has helped me with transfers and accommodations in Delhi before and after group tours. [10]

Esther Perica

 

My husband, Clyde, and I have traveled to INDIA nine times with Swagatam Tours Private Limited (New Delhi, India; phone +91 11 2544 4000, www.swagatam.com)

On each successive trip, we have gone to more out-of-the way, nontouristy locations with sparse tourist infrastructure in place, and Swagatam still comes through for us. 

We have been very demanding clients, specifying our own, often difficult and peculiar, routes and insisting on our own choices of hotels. Swagatam has made every effort to accommodate our whims and fancies. 

I purchased four bracelets from this woman, one of a dozen women selling “mixed silver” jewelry at the entrance to Jaisalmer Fort in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India. Photo by Jane B. Holt

Yes, of course, there have been some glitches. It is India, after all, and things cannot be expected to be perfect all the time. But, after a quick phone call to Swagatam (even once at 7 on a Sunday morning), each problem was speedily resolved.

On our most recent trip, November 2013-January 2014, our Swagatam agent, Unni Krishna, called each of our hotels before our arrival to be sure everything was in order and to instruct them to take extra-good care of us. This was an unexpected boon that often resulted in our being given room upgrades and other perks.

For full disclosure, I should say that Lajpat Kumar, vice president of Swagatam, has befriended us. When we began using the company, he was a manager. He has continued to work with us, and we now correspond with him regularly. In February 2013 we had dinner with his wife and him at their home, and we joined them for lunch on New Year’s Day 2014. 

We first learned about Swagatam from a letter in ITN by Susan Yanow and Phil Sego (Oct. 2000, pg. 119), and since 2004 we have returned to India annually. For that first trip, we did a price-and-itinerary comparison with several domestic Indian agencies, and, for value for money and responsiveness, Swagatam won hands down. 

For each trip since, we have relied on Swagatam to make suggestions on any itinerary we present to them, to reserve all of our hotels (which number 15 to 20 for any given trip), to provide us with a car and driver, to make train and domestic airline reservations for us, etc.

At major airports, Swagatam makes sure that guests are each welcomed by a greeter, who accompanies them to the hotel, reviews their travel plans with them and, on departure day, assists in any transfers. In addition, travelers who use guides (we do not) might be met by their guide, perhaps along with their driver for the remainder of the trip.

When we arrive in Delhi, we are always met by Sumit Sharma, the greeter from our first trip, who was then just starting at Swagatam. He continues to meet us, flowers in hand, even though he has been promoted and is now in charge of transportation. He considers us elder relatives, and this year we attended his younger brother’s sangeet (a prewedding party).

On one 5-week trip to the south of India, we were privileged to have the best driver we have ever had in all our years of travel, P. Selvamani, a man whose services were so exceptional that we hold him up as the ideal against which all others are compared. 

A family greeted us from their ornately painted doorway, typical of decorations on many houses in Bundi, Rajasthan. Photo by Jane B. Holt

P. Selvamani looked out for our every need, anticipated our requests and took us to special places we had not even read about. When we returned home, he helped me identify several village temples which we had photographed without proper notation on our part. He, too, has been elevated in the company and now works with clients out of Swagatam’s Chennai office.

On our most recent trip, our third return to Rajasthan and northern India, we had a wonderful driver, Davinder Singh, whom we recommend. From Dave, we learned that Swagatam takes excellent care of their vehicles, replacing tires and even cars about 30% sooner than most Indian tour operators. 

For this 39-night trip, we paid a total of $4,725 ($2,362.50 per person, or about $60.50 per person per day). Included were all airport/hotel transfers; accommodations which we chose, ourselves (including standard, premium, heritage and suite); breakfasts; a river/Jeep safari in Bateshwar (Jarar); air-conditioned transportation (Tata Indigo or similar), driver, and government taxes. 

Not included were visa fees; airfare (we had no internal flights, this trip); dinners and lunches; local guides (which we do not use); site entry fees, airport tax, and tips. 

Swagatam billed us in rupees and we paid in dollars. At the time, the rupee was very weak (INR61-INR62 = $1). We paid an initial deposit of $2,500 by wire transfer (no fee for us from our brokerage account) and paid (what we thought was) the remainder, $1,993, with a cashier’s check (again from our account with no fees).  

Swagatam expects a deposit of 50% once all the details are set and you agree to their arrangements. This can be paid by a bank transfer or online at their website with an American Express credit card. The balance can be paid on arrival in India by cash, cashier’s check or Visa, MasterCard or American Express credit card. Apparently, AmEx is the only card that can be used with them online. Credit card payments are levied a 3% surcharge.

On this 2013-2014 trip, we revisited some of our favorite sites and sought out unusual new places. Our route included Delhi, the National Chambal Sanctuary, Bateshwar, Orchha, Datia, Jhansi, Chanderi, Deogarh, Bundi, Jodhpur, Osian, Mandore, Jaisalmer, Phalodi, Khichan, Kolayat, Bikaner, Deshnoke, Alwar, Deeg and the Shekhawati region. Monuments, temples, forts, palaces, wildlife, big cities, small villages, festivals — we try to include variety in each trip.

Our hotel’s rooftop restaurant overlooked the roof of the complex of seven connected Jain temples at Jaisalmer Fort. Photo by Clyde F. Holt

During this trip, we were planning to attend a wedding in Jaipur, where we would be hosted for three nights. When the wedding was canceled at the last minute, Swagatam came up with a wonderful plan. 

Following our three nights at the Vivaana Culture Hotel in Churi Ajitgarh, Swagatam reserved for us the best room at Hotel Castle Mandawa, where we had been trying to stay for several trips but it was always booked solid. Overlooking the castle garden, we had an isolated, luxurious suite in the tower turret, including a marble staircase and a 2-story interior swing. 

For our 3-night stay, we paid an additional $232 (included in the $4,725 total mentioned above) by credit card when we returned to Delhi.

We appreciate the work Swagatam has done for us and would not travel to India with any other company. [10]

Jane B. Holt, Hinesburg, VT

 

had read favorable references about Indian Panorama (No. 5 Annai Avenue, Srirangam, Trichy, Tamil Nadu, 620006, India; phone +91 431 422 6122, www.indianpanorama.in) in ITN (April ’08, pg. 98 & June ’08, pg. 48).

Normally, we plan trips six months in advance, but, coming off another trip, my husband, Bob, our adult daughter, Rachelle, and I planned a visit to INDIA with Indian Panorama about three months before the trip, Jan. 15-Feb. 10, 2011. The company replied to our inquiries promptly and was helpful in creating an itinerary to our wants and needs.

We chose arrangements in the high/medium price bracket. Our 25-day trip cost about $3,600 per person, including airport pickup/delivery, hotels (with breakfast), a houseboat, a medium-size SUV with driver, toll road fees, several local guides, a bird walk with guide, a nature walk with guide, three tiger safaris, an elephant rescue park visit, camel and elephant rides, a kayak ride and a sunset cruise. 

What was not included were tips; lunches, dinners and drinks; entry fees to forts and palaces, and audio guides or local guides at forts or palaces. This was all outlined in the contract. 

When we went to a market or walked around a town, fort or palace, our driver stayed with the car. 

Mr. Pradeep was a very good driver. Knowledgeable and informative, he spoke English well and was protective of us. The car was clean, and cold bottled water was provided. Mr. Pradeep helped us by exchanging our large bills for smaller ones, and we even had him arrange to have items shipped to our home.

Our driver in the south, Phillip, was good and knowledgeable.

On this trip, one hotel was merely good, while the rest were excellent. The houseboat that we requested was great.

Our itinerary took us to New Delhi, Mandawa, Bikaner, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Udaipur, Bundi, Jaipur, Ranthambore Tiger Reserve and Agra, then back to Delhi. We flew to Cochin in the south for Alleppey, Periyar Tiger Park (no tiger sightings but a lovely place) and Thattekad, then back to Cochin. 

Knowing what I know now, I would have stayed another night or two in Udaipur and Ranthambore and perhaps two more days in Cochin. 

Seeing the Taj Mahal with 2,000 other people was an experience. You need to see it several times a day in the different lighting. The baby Taj was enjoyable.

We enjoyed walking to Ghaffar Market Street on our own in Delhi.

Also in Delhi, we spent about two to three hours shopping at Central Cottage Industries Emporium, where you’re buying from local artists. We found jewelry, saris, purses, evening bags, carvings, statues, dishes and knickknacks.

We liked riding camels in the Khuri Sand Dunes area and talking to the Indian tourists from all parts of the country.

On the hill to the Amber Fort we had the option of walking up or riding an elephant. We decided to take an elephant, and Mr. Pradeep paid for our tickets. 

At the mounting platforms at the bottom and top of the hill, there were signs that read “Do not tip!” As we went up the hill on the elephant, the mahout took our picture. In appreciation, we offered him 10 rupees, but he said he wanted 100 rupees. We told him ‘No.’ At the top of the hill, he moved us to the side and again asked for 100 rupees. We refused. After five minutes, he finally took us to the platform and let us disembark.

Throughout India, we enjoyed the excellent food. We were cautious and ate only peeled fruit (like bananas) for breakfast along with toast and other items. Rice was a staple. Without realizing it, we were on the BRAT diet but without the applesauce.

We took a water purifier to use in our hotel rooms and it worked wonderfully. The hotels gave us one bottle of water per person per day for free. However, traveling by car, we found it difficult, at first, to keep hydrated enough.

There were very few Western toilets between towns, so we drank very little water/coffee/juice at breakfast time, not knowing when our next opportunity to go to the toilet would be. (There were gas stations between towns, but when we asked to use the toilet at one, it was explained that the locals go behind the building.) In the first few days, we all ended up constipated. We then corrected our diets, omitting toast and bananas for breakfast, eating less rice and tanking up on water after reaching our destination. 

Here are some India travel tips.

Take earplugs. 

Take disposable surgical booties to be worn at the Taj Mahal, the Rat Temple (in Rajasthan), etc. That way, you’re not putting your dirty feet back into your shoes.

Have rupees on hand for toilets, taking pictures, entering palaces and forts, luggage handlers, waiters and this and that. 

We had our adult daughter with us. Men would come up in her face and take her picture. Other men would point and giggle. Still other men would ask to take her picture but then would try to “set her up” for the picture. Be cautious. 

Watch where you walk — traffic and animal poo. 

Beware of monkeys! 

We chose to travel by car to experience and see the real India. This is not for the faint of heart. The driving is very aggressive, with a lot of honking. Be cautious and alert but enjoy! [10]

Karen McCarty, Kihei, HI