Gorillas in Uganda

After traveling in Kenya and Tanzania (June ’14, pg. 23), two friends and I flew out of Arusha for a stay in Uganda, July 2-12, 2012. In Entebbe, we met Sharon Kisitu of Cliff Edge Safaris (phone 0753422600 or, in the US, 510/652-4261). 

Years ago, I hired Sharon’s father, Cliff Kisitu, on three occasions to take me around Uganda. Sadly, he was killed in 2011 in a boating accident. Sharon took over the business and has proven that she inherited both her father’s competence and sense of humor.

Our hotel in Entebbe was the African Roots Guest House (phone +256 [0] 784423207), owned by two women. This place was a joy, with immaculate rooms, home-like hospitality, Internet access (a rarity on this trip, even at the expensive hotels) and good meals. Rooms currently cost $55 single, $70 double and $90 triple, including breakfast.

In the morning, we took a boat to Ngamba Island for a couple of days at the Ngamba Chimpanzee Sanctuary. An intimate encounter with chimps was an experience of a lifetime (Feb. ’13, pg. 73).

Driving north to Kasese, we made our way to the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. This was my fifth gorilla trek, and it was one of the best.

We met at 8 in the morning for a briefing, then headed out to our respective gorilla groups. Each group is limited to eight visitors plus trackers and guides. We were assigned to the Habinyanja group, notorious for wandering so far that it often requires four to five hours to find them.

Recognizing my lack of physical fitness, I hired two porters, one to pull me and the other to push me from behind as we ascended the mountains. We could not believe our good fortune when we located the gorilla family within 50 minutes!

We watched for one hour as the adults grunted and ate and the babies practiced swinging on tree branches, often tumbling to the ground. It was sheer magic to be with these mammoth but gentle creatures that share 98% of our DNA. The cost of spending one hour with the mountain gorillas was $500.

The cost of our trip in Uganda, including car hire, guiding fees and breakfasts, was about $2,750 for the three of us. Anyone with questions may contact me through ITN.

LYNDA HOWLAND

Pittsford, NY