Teas in London
For my friend Billie Rivers and me, one of the delights of spending time in London is enjoying afternoon tea — the ambience, the slowing down, the cosseting and savoring both food and conversation. On our September ’09 trip we tried several locations.
• Through the website www.restaurantguide.com, we booked tea at 1901 at the Andaz (Andaz Liverpool Street hotel, 40 Liverpool St., London, EC2M 7QN, U.K.; phone +44 [0] 20 7618 7000).
Knowing that the Andaz, near Liverpool Street Station, is located in more of a working class neighborhood, we did not anticipate a tea as elegant as one would be in Piccadilly or Mayfair, but we were pleasantly surprised.
The building dates back to 1884, but the restaurant’s interior combines modern and contemporary décor with classical pillars and a spectacular stain-glassed dome in the ceiling.
Our “Champagne Tea” was only £15 (near $25) but competed well with teas at twice the price.
• Although The Wolseley (160 Piccadilly, London, W1J 9EB, U.K.; phone 020 7499 6996) was highly recommended by our guidebook, I say DON’T GO!
The room was a former showroom for the Wolseley auto in the 1930s and is a magnificent Art Deco setting, but the tables were crowded together, the din was overwhelming, the table next to us was wiped with a disinfectant that overwhelmed the aromas at our table, the service was slovenly (hot water poured into our teapots from a thermos rather than being discreetly whisked away and refilled) and paper napkins were in a stainless-steel rack clamped to the table.
The atmosphere was more of a diner than an elegant tearoom. Afternoon tea cost £19.95 ($33).
• Cadogan Hotel (75 Sloane St., London, SW1X 9SG, U.K.; phone +44 [0] 20 7235 7141).
You may recall that the Cadogan was the site of Oscar Wilde’s arrest (“We must ask you to leave with us quietly, for this is the Cadogan Hotel”). The setting is reminiscent of a British country home.
Tea was served in the Drawing Room, a comfortable room with love seats and easy chairs and art from the King’s Road Art Gallery. Service was excellent.
Afternoon tea is served from 3 p.m. and includes a wonderful variety of scones, jams, pastries, sandwiches and a large selection of teas. Prices for afternoon tea start at £22.50 and for Champagne afternoon tea, £28.50 ($47). With the reservation from Restaurant Guide.com, Billie and I obtained the £22.50 tea for £15. Highly recommended!
• Claridge’s (49 Brook St., Mayfair, London, W1K 4HR, U.K.; phone +44 [0] 20 7629 8860).
Of course, Claridge’s is the image that comes to mind when speaking of elegant teas in London, and I always envision Noel Coward and Gertrude Lawrence cavorting there. Tea was expensive at £33 ($54) plus 12.5% “discretionary gratuity,” but it was worth the experience — luxurious, elegant and perfect.
Our tea was a mouthwatering and utterly English meal that included a selection of sweet and savory pastries; freshly baked raisin and apple scones with tea-infused jam and Devonshire clotted cream; a choice of 30 teas from all over the world, and a delicious array of finger sandwiches, with exquisite service and live music, all in a lovely Art Deco setting, including a chandelier by the glass artist Chihuly.
VICKI SCHELL
Pensacola, FL