Visiting Greek islands independently

This item appears on page 34 of the February 2008 issue.

My wife, Dee, and I and another couple flew via military aircraft (I am retired military) from Florida to Crete in April ’07. Aside from our initial accommodations on the base, we had no previous reservations but relied on what we could book onsite. Dee’s Fodor’s guidebook gave us ideas about where we should go.

Most places were closed when we arrived for Easter, so we had to wait until Monday to contact a travel agent. At Spa Tours (with an office on the base and at Michelidaki 10, Chania 73100; phone 28210 66200, www.crete.tournet.gr/Spa_Tours-sm-1220-en.jsp) we arranged for a ferry ride to Athens ($31 each) as well as 10 days’ hotel bookings in Athens and on several islands.

On arrival in Athens’ port, Piraeus, after the 8-hour ferry trip, we tried for taxis, but they all were prebooked due to the influx of so many passengers. We walked about a half mile to the train and then from the station in Athens several blocks to Hotel Hermes (19 Apollonos 105-57 Plaka/Syntagma, Athens; phone +30 210 3222706, fax 3211800, www.hermeshotel.gr).

This hotel is in an excellent location near Syntagma Square and within walking distance of the Acropolis, the main square, Parliament, the botanical gardens and numerous shopping streets.

The front desk was most helpful. Rooms were immaculate and well appointed though not spacious. Ours cost €80 (near $115) per night, with a very good and complete breakfast included. There was a small bar and a comfortable lounge with Internet access.

We walked to see the Temple of Zeus, Hadrian’s Arch and the fourth-century B.C. Panathinakiko Stadium (where the first modern Olympics were held in 1896), and these were a pleasant surprise.

We had a nice lunch in the Plaka District at the Byzantino Restaurant (18 Kidathinean, Plaka, Athens; phone 210 322 7368). The price, €10-€15 ($14-$21) per person, was typical for restaurant meals in Greece. Beer usually cost about €3. We frequently shared a plate when we ate out, since the portions usually were quite large.

We bought three more ferry trips from a travel agent for €64 ($93) per person. This would take us from Athens to Patmos to Kos, then Rhodes. The first leg, Athens to Patmos, left at 5 p.m. and arrived at 4 in the morning — a long, tiring boat ride.

On Patmos, we walked the small town and around the beautiful harbor, then hired a taxi (€25, or $36) to take us up the mountain to the Monastery of St. John and the grotto where he spoke to God and wrote the Book of Revelations. This island looks like what one sees on calendars of Greek Islands — very beautiful.

After a 5-hour ferry ride to Kos, arriving at 6 a.m., we were a bit put out because there were few taxis at the port. After we walked awhile a woman on a motorbike directed us to a taxi stand. Luckily, we had rolling bags.

We stayed at the Maritina Hotel (19 L. Vironos and E. Venizelou Street, Cos, Greece; phone +30 22420 23511 3, fax 22420 26124, www.maritina.gr), which was in a very good location near the main square, where we found an Internet café. The furniture in our room was old and a bit banged up, but the mattress was firm and comfortable. It cost €60 ($86) a night. The service was great.

Then we walked all over town viewing Roman ruins, including a small theater and the Odeon. A plane tree in a small square not far from our hotel was supposedly planted about 300 B.C. by Hippocrates. Our guidebook said it really isn’t that old, but now we can say we saw it.

We hired a taxi (€25, or $36) to take us to Asklipion and then to the mountain village of Zia. In Asklipion are the remains of Hippocrates’ hospital, where to this day doctors can take their oath.

Zia is a village of 500 people on top of a 3,000-foot mountain overlooking olive tree farms, harbors and generally beautiful scenery. Turkey is visible fewer than 10 miles away. We had a nice luncheon in the Olympia Taverna (phone +30 22420 69121, www.olympia-zia.gr/eng), located on the higher of Zia’s two parallel streets. Main dishes ran €4.50-€7 ($6.50-$10).

Monday morning, we left Kos on a fast ferry for Rhodes, arriving by 11 and taking a taxi to Hotel Manousos (G. Leontos 25, P.O. Box 92, Rhodes, Greece 85100; phone +30 0241022741, www.helios.gr/hotels/manousos).

I do not recommend this hotel, as the bed was just okay, it’s not in the main part of town and it was not luxurious or even moderately so. It cost €55 ($79) a night. It was near the casino, and there were many nice-looking hotels nearby.

We walked along the massive harbor and visited the walled Old Town, an ancient stadium and the acropolis with its Temple to Apollo. We were disappointed that the Old Town is so full of shops that you cannot get the feeling you are viewing history. We tried to locate some of the more important places, but there were few signs. The Cathedral and museums were interesting.

On one of our three days in Rhodes we took a local bus (€8 each) to Lindos and viewed their acropolis with its Temple to Athena on top. We had to get up this mountain by riding donkeys (€5 each) — an enjoyable excursion.

The bus ride to and from the city was enlightening also. The sights of the sea and the large resort hotels along the way were interesting, and the small villages in the hills and valleys were quaint.

We flew from Rhodes to Hera­klion, Crete, on Olympic Airways (€107, or $153). We had no hotel reservation and had to stay in the 5-star Atlantis Hotel (2, Igias Str. 71202 Heraklio, Crete; phone +30 281 0 22 91 03, fax 0 22 62 65, www.theatlantishotel.gr) for €130 ($186) per night — the most expensive hotel of the trip. It was luxurious.

On the last day, we took a bus (€11) to Chania, a 3-hour ride along the scenic coast of Crete. There were many snow-covered mountains in the middle of the island. Finally, we took a taxi to the nearby military base and caught a flight back to Florida.

STAN INK

Fort Myers, FL