Italy's Relais Torre Guelfa and Relais dell’Olmo
The Relais Torre Guelfa (Figline Valdarno, Tuscany, ITALY. Call Gruppo Torre Guelfa in Firenze at +390 5595 1112, fax 5595 07727 or visit www. torreguelfa.it) is a unique inn nestled among vineyards and gardens. My husband and I and another couple spent 10 days there in September ’05.
Relais Torre Guelfa and the Restaurant Torre Guelfa are owned by a sister and brother, Sabrina and Claudio Piantini. Sabrina bubbles with goodwill, laughter and efficiency. Her favorite responses in English are “No problem,” “Suuure” and “Perfecto.” Any request is quickly turned into reality.
In addition to running the restaurant, Claudio teaches cooking classes. Although we were not taking a class, we had an opportunity during our stay to meet some of the students, who were enthusiastic about their new culinary skills.
Decorated in Tuscan style, the relais has five rooms each with bathroom en suite. Beds can be made up as twins or a king. Each room had a telephone and a small refrigerator that was supplied daily with a bottle of sparkling water and one of still water.
Barbara lays out breakfast and takes care of the rooms. We were invited to have our evening meal in the nearby restaurant (Sabrina would drive us there and pick us up when we wished to return). Other nights we preferred to eat in the dining room of the relais or at tables outside. Chefs from the restaurant came to prepare our evening meals.
Four courses was standard, and we had to beg for piccolo (small) portions. If someone wanted a salad instead of soup, “No problem,” or risotto instead of pasta, “No problem.”
When we arrived at the table each evening, we would find a full bottle of white wine and another of red, in addition to a bottle of sparkling water and one of still.
The relais has a swimming pool, and relais guests as well as friends of Sabrina and Claudio could be found enjoying it. The relais definitely exudes a very friendly, family atmosphere.
Many guests stay only a few days, but we decided to spend 10 nights and do day trips around Tuscany. Our trip was booked through Flavia Jaber of Road to Italy (140 Dupont St., Toronto, Ont., Canada M5R 1V2; phone 800/848-8163, ext. 27, or visit www.roadtoitaly.com).
Our arrangements included a driver each day and licensed half-day guides in most towns we visited. All vehicles were very comfortable, air-conditioned vans. Lunch would be at a restaurant chosen by the incredible Sabrina, and a voucher was faxed ahead of time so we were always expected and welcomed. When we requested a simple pizzeria or café a couple of times, “No problem,” the change was made.
We saw quite a lot of Tuscany. Here are my “don’t miss” sights: the Casentino area, if you like the countryside and old but still-functioning abbeys; Chianti country; San Gimignano; Monteriggioni; Siena; Loro Ciuffenna (the hometown of one of our drivers); Chiusi (excellent Etruscan museum); Lucca, and the Arno Valley. Sabrina also provided us with tickets for excellent seats for the Palio (medieval festival) in Figline.
After sadly taking our leave of the Relais Torre Guelfa, we spent three nights in Perugia at the Relais dell’Olmo (Strada Olmo-Ellera 4, 06704 Perugia, Italy; phone 0039 075 5173054 or visit www. relaisolmo.com). This is a very nice inn with a helpful staff. They have a superb restaurant also, but this is a hotel. Relais Torre Gulefa is in a class by itself and, despite all our travels, a unique experience.
In the Umbria region, do not miss Perugia, little Todi and magnificent Orvieto.
Our trip arrangements included 10 nights at the Relais Torre Guelfa, three at the Relais dell’Olmo, two in Rome, airport meeting and transfers, meals, private car and driver, six licensed guides for tours of certain cities, tickets for the Palio, and a booklet with information on each town and on the tours. The land cost for two was $8,500.
SUSANNA DÁVILA
San Rafael, CA
A room for two at the Relais Torre Guelfa costs €150 ($182), and dinner runs €25-€40 ($30-$49) per person. At the Relais dell’Olmo, doubles run €110-€146 and singles, €75-€93.