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May 2008 issue.

This issue is fully posted. Articles are displayed in the order they appear in the magazine.

Boarding Pass

Dear Globetrotter: Welcome to the 387th issue of your monthly overseas travel magazine. Before you get to the articles and letters sent in by other ITN readers — who write for your benefit as well as a love of travel, not for any personal gain — here are some news items you may find of interest. Travelers ...

Travel Tidbits

  If you’ll be shopping overseas and want to know the Customs regulations on what you can bring back, visit the website www.customs.gov/xp/cgov/travel. — CLAUDIA REED, Las Vegas, NV   In Angara on the Azorean island of Terceira, the Festival of Saint John takes place for nine days in late June. Unfortunately for the jet-lagged, parades, concerts ...

An Apartment in Paris: a great base for a week-long visit

Martha and I, like many travelers, are drawn to Paris and seem to return there more often than to any other European city. On a recent 3-week trip to France, we spent our first week in Paris. ...

Passport processed at embassy

I read how you could get additional blank pages into inserted in your U.S. passport (termed a “passport amendment”) at a U.S. Embassy (Aug.’07, pg. 34). After several years of international travel, my wife and I were running out of blank passport pages. We didn’t like the thought of mailing our passports to the backlogged ...

Initial snag at Immigration

My name is J. William. On my passport, my first name has always read “JWilliam.” This has been on several passports over about 50 years without any problems. However, when we returned to Dallas from Mexico on Feb. 25, 2008, the computer at Immigration would not recognize my passport. I was taken into a private room. ...

Re Indian visa

I have another bit of information to add regarding using a 10-year visa in India (June ’07, pg. 14 & Sept. ’07, pg. 89). When my husband, Clyde, and I went through the Immigration lines in New Delhi, India, in November ’07, we each spoke to a Customs official. Both officers said the same thing: it ...

Rome’s Termini: bigger, better, bella

Rome’s Termini is a rather lovely train station. Really! It once was awful, but now it’s rather fine. I first visited the station about 10 years ago, on a rainy January day. On the Eurostar Italia, my companion and I arrived at the dirty station, where litter gathered in doorways and on the tracks. I needed ...

Keeping up with the TSA

Many travelers are caught by surprise when the Transportation Security Administration (TSA) changes the rules about what can be carried aboard aircraft and what constitutes a “prohibited item.” I suggest that before you finish your packing for each trip, you consult the TSA webpage www.tsa.gov/travelers/airtravel/prohibited/permitted-prohibited-items.shtm. You are able to sign up for e-mail notification for ...

Landesmuseum Mainz

In Mainz, Germany, we found the Landesmuseum Mainz (Grosse Bleiche 49-51, Mainz; phone 06131/23295577 or visit www.landes museum-mainz.de [in German]. Open 10-8 Tuesday, 10-5 Wednesday-Sunday; entry €6 or free on Saturday), just down the street from St. Peter’s, a very worthwhile place to visit. This museum houses treasures from the Stone Age to the present, with ...

Funniest Thing for May

Tell ITN about the funniest thing that ever happened to you while traveling in a foreign country. There are no restrictions on length. (ITN prints no info on destinations in the U.S., Canada, Mexico or the Caribbean.) The ITN staff will choose each month’s winner, who will receive a free one-year subscription to ITN. Entries ...

Pöstlingsberg Church

We embarked on a Christmas markets cruise with Grand Circle Travel in November ’07, spending four days in Austria and three days in Germany. On the day we were in Linz, Austria, it snowed very hard in the morning, greatly reducing visibility. Our guide mentioned the turn-of-the-century streetcar to Pöstlingsberg Church at the top of ...

Sailing the Society Islands by tall-masted ship

by Brita Bishop, Dallas, TX To sail French Polynesia — and to do so on a square-rigged, tall-masted brigantine — seemed the height of romance. So in July ’07 I signed on for a cruise on the Søren Larsen, becoming a member of the Voyage Crew. Sixteen of us were joined by the permanent crew of ...

Found fault with guide in Mongolia

My husband and I took the tour “From Mystical Tibet to Nomadic Mongolia,” May 29-June 13, 2007, with Nomadic Expeditions. The land cost per person was $4,695. Internal airfare (Beijing-Lhasa-Beijing and Beijing-Ulaanbaatar-Gobi-Ulaanbaatar) was included, and the trip “ended” in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia; participants had to additionally buy airfare from Ulaanbaatar back to Beijing. We and another couple who ...

Stunning views in Mongolia

I went on a very interesting 19-day trip to Mongolia, July 1-19, 2007, with Nomadic Expeditions (Monroe Township, NJ; 800/998-6634, www.nomadic expeditions.com). The president of the company is Mongolian-American. They also have an office in downtown Ulaanbaatar. The cost of the main trip was $3,575, and an extension to the extreme western province in the Altai ...

Unhappy with long layover

My husband and I departed for Overseas Adventure Travel’s “Hidden Gems: the Dalmatian Coast and Greece” on Oct. 6, 2007. Having traveled three times before with OAT and been satisfied with their flight arrangements, we were surprised to find when the final documents came that we had a more than 7-hour layover in the Frankfurt, ...

Sky-high charge for scratch

On a trip my wife and I took to Europe in May ’07, we picked up a car at the Frankfurt airport that we had reserved over the Internet from National Car Rental. As always, I scrutinized the car carefully before signing the form that claimed it had no damage. Three weeks later we returned the ...

Wine tasting in Chile

My wife, Bonita, and I along with another couple in early 2007 booked the trip “Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego & the Chilean Fjords” with Overseas Adventure Travel (Cambridge, MA) for January ’08. Since we all are wine lovers and enjoy Chilean wines, we also booked the pre-trip to Chile. But the pre-trip included only one ...

Tour of lush Indonesia

We took a wonderful vacation to Sumatra and Java, Indonesia, Jan. 17-25, 2008, through Floressa Bali Tours (Jalan Gandapura III K / 16 Kesiman, Denpasar 80237, Bali, Indonesia; phone +62 361 467625, fax 467347 or visit www.floressa-bali.com). I cannot say enough about the professionalism of their guides, the safe transport, the wonderful accommodations and our personalized ...

Trans-Siberian sensations

What can you see through the woods but for the trees? On my May ’07 Trans-Siberian Railroad trip I saw plenty. I saw the different shades and hues of the forest trees, the pristine crispness of the trees and tundra, and the majestic snowcapped mountains in the far background. I saw the enormity of it all, the ...

London’s The Celtic Hotel

For those who were saddened by the closure of St. Margaret’s Hotel in Bloomsbury, London, in the spring of 2007, be of good cheer. The Marazzi family, who owned St. Margaret’s for almost 60 years (for those who haven’t heard, the property was sold and is being converted to an “upscale boutique hotel”), owns another ...

Venice’s Hotel Cá Doge

We’ve been to Venice six times, and the perfect hotel if you’re arriving by car or departing on a cruise is Hotel Cá Doge (Piazzale Roma, Sest. Santa Croce 467/e, 30135 Venice, ITALY; phone +39 041 5286 975, fax 041 2410 865, www.cadoge.it). Its location, Piazzale Roma, is where all vehicle traffic coming into Venice must ...

Hotels in Italy’s Campania region

Here are recommendations from a November ’07 trip to the Campania area of ITALY. • Hostel Hotel Bella Capri (Via Melisurgo, 4, Gate B, 6th Floor, Naples, Italy; phone/fax +39 081 552 92 65, www.bellacapri.it). This combination hostel/hotel (there were a few private rooms with bath) is just off the waterfront, convenient to boats to and from ...

Marina Hotel in Malta

In Malta, the Marina Hotel (Tigne Sea Front, Sliema SLM15, Malta; phone 00 356 2133 6461, fax 2133 0650, www.themarinahotelsliema.com) is a family-run hotel that offers sea-view rooms, which, while not luxurious, have all you need plus wonderful views of Valletta across the bay. Ask for an upper floor to avoid street noise. We enjoyed ...

Jim’s Jungle Retreat in India

The piéce de résistance of our October ’07 trip to INDIA was a stay at Jim’s Jungle Retreat (Village & PO Dhela, Ramnagar – 244715, Nainital, Uttarakhand, India; phone +91 5947 238038 or 238039, fax 5947 251636, www.jimsjungleretreat.com). Opened in 2006 at the southern edge of Corbett National Park & Tiger Reserve, it’s situated far enough ...

Inexpensive and comfortable lodgings in South America

I found the following inexpensive but comfortable lodgings during a February-March ’07 visit to South America (see April’08, pg. 49). Each had private bath, cable TV and, where needed, A/C. The price given for each is the approximate dollar amount for my single room. • Hotel Rosario del Lago (Padres at Costañera, Copacabana, BOLIVIA; phone 591 ...

Ecuador’s Hostal Las Margaritas

In southern Ecuador, “The Valley of Longetivity” is about 25 miles from the border with Peru. In November ’07 I visited this area and stayed at Hostal Las Margaritas (Vilcabamba, Ecuador; phone 5937 2673 3130, e-mail jorgeluis222@latinmail. com or visit www.vilcabamba.org/lasmargaritas.html) — corner of Sucre and Jaramillo, one block from the bus station and ...

Dubai and Oman — Finding glitzy cityscapes, beautiful beaches, and underwater adventure

by Larry Taylor, Fullerton, CA Before our trip to the Middle East two years ago, we mentioned our plans to our friends and most questioned why on Earth we would go there — terrorists, religious strife and all. In 2007, however, when we said we were going back to this area, flying to Dubai to embark ...

Carrying meds overseas

At the suggestion of Kathy McIntosh of Stroudsburg, Pennsylvania, ITN asked readers the following questions. How do you pack your prescription medications? If you use handy, generic pill cases, has it ever been a problem at the airport? What was the result? Please mention whence and where you were flying and approximately when that was. Have ...

Reflecting on the merits and disadvantages of cruising

by Larry Hughes, Houston, TX Historians will often point out that the reason we remember Columbus is that he was the last to discover the Americas. From A.D. 900 or so on, continental America was well known to the seafaring Vikings. There were settlements in Newfoundland and evidence of Viking life in Iceland and the Faroe ...

Beware in Barcelona

My husband, my sister and I decided to spend the 2007 Christmas holidays in Europe, and to that end we booked a 14-day “Christmas Markets” riverboat trip with Vantage Deluxe World Travel (Boston, MA; 800/322-6677, www.vantagetravel.com). Following that, we would have a rental car and a Christmas week timeshare in southern France, then spend New ...

Guide in Istanbul

On a 5-day trip to Istanbul, Turkey, in September ’07, we had the great pleasure of hiring Mr. Can (“John”) Gunay (www.cangunay.com), whom we found through a tour operator on the Rick Steves website www.ricksteves.com; the operator was booked that day but referred us to Can. One of the youngest qualified licensed guides in Turkey, he ...

Notes on Cappadocia

I enjoyed a month’s tour of Turkey in May ’07. Eastern Turkey is very scenic. There were two occasions that were disappointing, however. The pools at Pamukkale were not what they used to be. The area is not as attractive as it used to be because not enough water is allowed over the hillside. Also, bathing ...

Great meal in Brest

On the day after Christmas 2007 we were in Brest, France, and found many of the restaurants closed for vacation. After a little searching, we found Les Caudalies (1 rue Malakoff, 29200 Brest), a 36-seat neighborhood/family restaurant. Once we were seated, the host/waiter/owner brought the menu, written on a small chalkboard and listing four starters and ...

Best Airline from/to the US

Qantas economy ‘excellent’ I had not flown with Qantas since 1983, but for an October ’07 flight from Auckland, New Zealand, to Los Angeles, since they were the best buy, I bought a ticket. The economy class was excellent. The plane was clean, and all the stewardesses went out of their way to be helpful. Next, the food ...

Japan’s Nebuta Festival

During an April trip to Japan’s Honshu island, we visited the Nebuta-no-sato Museum, where some of the floats for the Nebuta-matsuri in Aomori are housed. (The festival takes place Aug. 2-7 each year; visit www.nebuta.jp/english/index_e.htm.) Throngs of people attend this festival, the city’s most popular summer event. Origins of the Nebuta Festival are not clear. One ...

Disabled parking in Europe

A reader mentioned taking a disability pass to Europe in order to park in spaces for the handicapped (Dec. ’07, pg. 103). At the website www.globalaccessnews.com and after clicking on “Travel Archives,” under “Trips, Tips and Resources” I found the following item: “Great news! European countries now honor disabled parking placards from the U.S. and Canada. ...

Sorting slides

Regarding transferring large numbers of slides to a CD or DVD, Linda Lander wrote, “I need a ‘previewer’ to sort out what I want to discard” (Oct. ’07, pg. 48). I bought an “illuminated slide sorter” from B&H (New York, NY; 800/947-7785 or 212/444-6635, ext. 2055, www.bhphotovideo.com). It consists of a 12″x16″ translucent plastic sheet with ...

Reading headlamp

During a wakeful night, while wearing my climber’s headlamp to illuminate the March ’08 issue of ITN, I noted the reference (page 69) to carrying lightbulbs for sufficient reading light and was struck by the simplicity and effectiveness of our family’s solution to that problem. Each of us has a Petzl Tikka Plus Headlamp, which is ...

Giant’s Causeway bus

During a 14-day “Celtic Kingdoms” cruise on Holland America Line’s Prinsendam, on Aug. 31, 2007, I took a day-long shore excursion from Belfast to Giant’s Causeway. Before the trip, I had read in a guidebook that the walk down to the causeway took 15 minutes but that a shuttle bus made continuous round trips. As I ...

Village Museum, Bucharest

In the March ’08 issue, page 59, a reader wrote that he was disappointed with the outdoor Village Museum in Bucharest, Romania. We were in Bucharest in September ’07 and found the Village Museum to be wonderful. It is located on the banks of a pretty little lake, with native trees, shrubs and flowers all ...

Lion excursion in Zimbabwe

During a month-long Africa trip, I wanted to get up close to lions. It wasn’t until I got to Zambia and the Waterfront Hotel & Campground aka The Zambezi Waterfront, Victoria Falls aka The Waterfront (P.O. Box 60407, Livingstone, Zambia; phone +260 213 320606 or 07 or 08, fax 213 320609, e-mail [for accommodation] waterfront@safpar.com ...

The Philippines

by Roger Canfield, Contributing Editor Before my late October ’07 trip to the Philippines, I was aware that the Philippines and America share certain historical commonalities, including Christianity, colonialism, war, independence and democracy. While, on my trip, I found friendly people and fine food, the country also has its share of poverty-stricken areas. First impressions ...

All Aboard » New RhB summer timetables

The Rhaetian Railroad (RhB) in Switzerland revised its 2008 summer (May 10-Oct. 19) timetable. All four Glacier Express trains from Zermatt will detour via Chur on their way to St. Moritz, and three Bernina Express trains will not originate in Chur but instead will run between St. Moritz and Tirano. One Bernina Express train will ...

The Discerning Traveler » Self-treatment of sprains and strains

I pulled on the rope, whereupon the bucket promptly made the expected 180-degree tumble. A cascade of delightfully warm water washed over me. Feeling clean once again in the Kenyan bush, where we were on a hiking safari, I sat down on the rickety chair in the makeshift shower enclosure to dry my feet. As ...

Mideast and Mediterranean » Personal memories of yesterday’s Mideast

Longtime readers of this column certainly realize that Moreen and I are extremely fond of the Middle East, especially its people. Having said that, 9/11 hurt us personally, seeing that men of the Muslim faith, others of whom had always treated us with utmost respect and kindness, would initiate such violence toward our country. No, we ...

Focus on Archaeology » Guaraní-Jesuit missions of Argentina

by Julie Skurdenis The conquistadores arrived in South America early in the 16th century. They came hungry for land and hungry for gold. With them came priests and monks intent on spreading the Catholic faith among the many Indian groups. One of the religious groups was the Jesuits, founded in 1540 by a Spaniard, Ignatius of Loyola. ...

Adventure Travel » Cape Verde Islands

by Wayne Wirtanen (Third of three parts on The Gambia and the Cape Verde Islands, jump to part 1, part 2, part 3) Volcanoes, salt and slavery When I opened the Bradt Travel Guide “Cape Verde Islands” (Globe Pequot Press; www.bradtguides. com), which I bought for an October ’07 trip, I was fascinated with one of the ...