Hotel Ambassade in Amsterdam

I was happy with the Hotel Ambassade (Herengracht 341, 1016 AZ Amsterdam, NETHERLANDS; phone +31 20 555 0 222 or visit www.ambassade-hotel.nl). I stayed there March 29-April 3, ’06, during the off-season, so my double room cost €185 ($238) per night, reduced from the rack rate of €220 ($283).

My instinct is that the accommodations would be overpriced at the rack rate, but I don’t have other hotel experiences in Amsterdam to compare it to. I had originally booked a less-expensive hotel, the Fita, for about $140 per night, and I can’t help but wonder now if that one would have seemed a better value, euro for euro.

However, the Ambassade has an outstanding location; I couldn’t have asked for a better one. It’s on the Herengracht, one of the three main canals, in the heart of Old Amsterdam. It’s about a 15-minute walk from Dam Square and the Anne Frank House and 25 minutes from the Van Gogh Museum and Rijksmuseum. It’s also close to many shops and restaurants.

The hotel has an elevator, but it is important to note that due to the historic nature of the building, it is necessary to climb up and/or down two to five steps, perhaps more than once, in order to actually access most of the rooms. There are only a handful that are on the same level as the elevator stops, so if this is a concern, be sure to specify.

The breakfast was excellent, a buffet with choices of juices, pastries, fruit, yogurt, smoked salmon, cheeses, rolls, etc. Eggs and bacon could also be requested, cooked to order. It was pricey, €16 ($21), but it set me up for the entire day; I never wanted lunch, so I thought it well worth it. Breakfast was served in a pleasant room up about 10 steep, narrow steps from the ground floor, with no elevator access.

The hotel had free computer terminals with Internet access on the lobby level.

My room, meant as a double, was small — not as bad as a single but small for a double. The bathroom was modern — not state of the art but convenient. The hair dryer was weak. I managed, but those of you with thick or long hair might find it wanting. My room also had satellite TV with about 25 or more stations, including the BBC and CNN.

The room was very clean as was the entire hotel, but I think the decor was dated and could have used a redo. Nothing was the least bit shabby; it was just not in pristine condition. That and the room size were the reasons I thought the official price high.

However, the Ambassade had excellent service, and room service for light meals and snacks was available 24-7.

Here are some restaurants I tried in Amsterdam:

Luden (Spuistraat 304; phone +31 [020] 622 89 79 or visit www.luden.nl) — centrally located and open daily noon to midnight.

I liked it so much I dined here twice. It was casual and not too noisy. There were lots of food choices. Fixed-price dinner for €26 ($33) for three courses; wine, coffee and bottled water were extra. I wouldn’t call the food haute cuisine, but it was very good and a very good value.

Café Luxembourg (Spuistraat 24; phone +31 [020] 620 6264 or visit www.luxembourg.nl) — open daily 9 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Why this place is famous, I’ll never know. One source I read actually called it “one of the best cafés in the world.” I sat at one of the tiny tables in the enclosed window area. The prices were moderate enough, and everything from full lunch to just coffee and snacks was offered, but I found both the food (which I waited a long time for) and the service to be indifferent, at best.

I had croquettes for €8 ($10) plus a cup of tea and a Coke for €4. I would call it a tourist trap, but it wasn’t very expensive and there were lots of locals there.

Casa di David (Singel 426; phone +31 [020] 624 5093 or visit www. casadidavid.com) — open 5 p.m. to midnight. This was a very busy and popular place. Some tables overlook canals.

For about €50 ($64), including tax and tip, I had a satisfying and delicious 3-course Italian meal and a glass of wine. If I’d ordered differently (pizzas and such), I could have spent less. I really thought the food was outstanding, and the service was efficient and pleasant.

• My last dinner in Amsterdam was at Barok (Wolvenstraat 22-24; phone +31 [020] 330 74 70 or visit www.restaurantbarok.nl) — open noon to 11 p.m. Thursday through Saturday and 6 p.m.-10 p.m. Sunday to Wednesday.

Two half-blocks from my hotel and suggested by the desk staff, Barok was an excellent choice. The decor was pretty, the lighting was subdued and the service was casual but very accommodating. Portions might be considered by some to be on the petite side, but I wasn’t terribly hungry that night, and the quality and presentation were excellent and worth much more than I paid.

My dinner came to €29.50 ($38) before tip, for a delicious main dish, a glass of wine, bottled water and a cappuccino. Starters and desserts were each in the €8-€13 range. If you’re in the neighborhood, I highly recommend this place.

I’ve compiled a long trip file on Amsterdam. If any ITN readers would like to have it, they can e-mail me c/o ITN.

ELAINE LAVINE
New York, NY