Hotel selections while touring Rajasthan

Of the cities we visited while touring Rajasthan, INDIA, in January ’06, we liked Jodhpur best of all. It was less touristy than the other places, and it had a great fort and a very lively market area with a clock tower.

Throughout our trip, we noticed that ATMs were few and far between. We used travelers’ checks.

The food everywhere was wonderful and cheap.

Here are six hotels we stayed at. All were quite satisfactory, and the rooms each had a private bath with a Western toilet.

• Hotel Ajanta (36, Arakashan Road, Ram Nagar, NEW DELHI, 110055 India; phone +91 [11] 23620221 or fax 29561338) — near the New Delhi train station. They offered free pickup at the airport.

This hotel was okay and secure although fairly basic. Rooms on the top floor were remodeled. Around $30 for a double. The restaurant had a great thali (set meal).

• Hotel Madhuban (D-237 Bihari Marg, Bani Park, JAIPUR, 302016, India; phone +91 141-2200033 or visit www.madhuban.net) — in a good location in the Bani Park area of the city.

Truly a great place to stay. Extremely well run. For $48 for a double, we had a suite with a separate sitting area. There also was an outdoor seating area and pool.

• Hotel Bhairon Vilas (BIKANER 334001; phone/fax +91 151-2544751 or visit http:/hotelbhaironvilas.tripod. com) — next to Junagarh Fort. A nice setup, with a 3-story compound and large grounds. We had a huge and well-decorated room with an outdoor sitting area. $23 double.

• Hotel Nachana Haveli (Goverdan Chowk, JAISALMER 345001, India; phone +91 02992 251910 or e-mail nachana_haveli@yahoo.com) — in a good location in the Old Town outside the fort. In a very old redone building, our double room, at $41, was small but nice.

• Ratan Vilas (Loco Shed Rd., Ratanada, JODHPUR 342 001, Rajasthan, India; phone/fax +91 291-2614418 or visit www.ratan vilas.com).

A very classy place. The rooms were in two buildings arranged around a courtyard eating area. Our very large room, nicely furnished, had marble floors. $24 double.

• Hotel Devi Bhawan (Ratanada Circle, Defence Laboratory Rd., JODHPUR, Rajasthan, India; phone +91 291 2511067 or visit www.devi bhawan.com) — very nice, although somewhat away from town and less convenient than Ratan Vilas. Lovely gardens and pool. A smaller room cost $23 double.

KAREN MAYS-WOLKE

Eugene, OR