I saw three ships. . .

Most travel agents and ship reviewers agree that there are four lines that head the top of their lists for luxury or high-quality cruise lines, namely Crystal, Radisson Seven Seas, Seabourn and Silversea. Through a seemingly chance juxtaposition of forces, my wife and I had the opportunity to sample three of these lines within a 3-month period in 2004: Silversea in October, Seabourn in November and Crystal in December. (And while we had sailed on two Radisson ships in the past, we felt that the passage of time might have either fogged our memories or the line’s services might have changed in the ensuing 2-year time period, making it unfair to include Radisson in this article.)

Our first voyage in this trilogy was on the Silver Shadow of Silversea Cruises (Ft. Lauderdale, FL; 800/722-9955 or www.silversea.com). The Shadow is one of four ships of this line and along with its sister ship the Silver Whisper is the largest and newest. It weighs in at 28,000 tons, carries a maximum of 382 passengers and 300 crew members and dates from 2000-2001.

Our cruise was labeled “Empire of the Incas,” departing Puerto Caldera, Costa Rica, for a 12-day voyage down the west coast of Central and South America to Callao (Lima), Peru, and returning to Puerto Caldera.

Our cabin, No. 430, was really a suite of 287 square feet with a large picture window, queen-sized bed, sitting room, walk-in closet and a gorgeous marble bath that included a very large tub, two vanity sinks, a separate stall shower and more than enough room to move about.

We booked this cruise through our local travel agent at University Travel of Durham, New Hampshire, working with Golden Bear Travel of Novato, California. The price quoted for our suite was $2,835 for each person, but as we both were previous passengers on Silversea we received an additional discount of 10% off the list price, bringing our final payment to $2,305 each. Furthermore, since we had booked through Golden Bear we received a Mariner Club onboard credit of $300 per suite as well as a hosted cocktail party with their on-board representatives, Carol and Tom Ross.

To sweeten the cake even further, Silversea includes all gratuities on board as well as almost anything you can think of to drink (soft drinks, beer, wine and cocktails). Complimentary shuttle buses were available at all ports that were more than a few blocks from the ship’s pier. Of course, a self-service laundry was provided without charge, and the overall service throughout the ship was outstanding.

Production floor shows were more than adequate, and the lectures on Inca culture and related topics were well presented and interesting. A 5-piece orchestra played for ballroom dancing that included waltz, samba, tango, cha-cha and fox trot. Two gentlemen hosts were available for the single ladies and could be found each night on the modest-size but adequate dance floor.

The cuisine on the Silver Shadow was gourmet. We would have preferred somewhat simpler fare, but we could always settle for caviar, Caesar salad and filet mignon, our favorites. Service both in the open-seating main dining room and the informal Lido was uniformly excellent.

Dress was on the traditional side in the dining room, which we liked — an opportunity for the ladies to wear their gowns and the gentlemen to don their tuxedoes or dark suits. During the day and on casual nights, normal cruise wear dominated most areas of the ship.

The only suggestion that we could make at the end of the cruise was for the water temperature in the very nice-sized pool to be raised a few degrees.

Our second cruise was on the Seabourn Pride, one of three sister ships of Seabourn Cruise Line (Miami, FL; 800/929-9391 or www.seabourn.com). Each of these ships weighs in at 10,000 gross tons and carries a maximum of 208 passengers and a crew of 160.

The 7-night cruise we took was called “Grenadines and Orinoco Odyssey,” sailing from Bridgetown, Barbados, to the Orinoco River in Venezuela and back to Barbados. Our suite, No. 9130, measured 277 square feet and had a large picture window, queen-sized bed, sitting area, walk-in closet and a very nice-sized bath with a tub/shower combination and two vanity sinks.

Through University Travel, we paid $2,160 each for the seven days. From Seabourn’s By Invitation referral program we did receive an on-board credit of $500, an amount we had difficulty in spending. All drinks both alcoholic and soft were included in the fare, and we had a fully stocked refrigerator with our personal selections of liquor and wines.

We had preordered bottles of VO and Baileys but decided once we were on board that some José Cuervo would be nice to have in the suite. Just mentioning this to our cabin steward brought the desired bottle to our suite the next day, all at no charge.

Attentive service was always available throughout the ship without tipping. If anything, our experience with lines that include gratuities is that the service is much better than on ships where everyone seems to have a hand outstretched.

The dining experience on the Seabourn Pride was similar to that on the Silver Shadow, with wide choices available at all times. Dress recommendations also were very much alike, with open-seating meal arrangements in both dining areas.

Free shuttle service and a self-service laundry were welcome features. The ship’s tenders are just that (not lifeboats pressed into service), the result being that the tender service was the best we have ever experienced.

There were no floor shows, as such, which is understandable given the small size of the ship. The cruise director and his staff provided most of the entertainment supplemented by an occasional comic or magician.

There was a 3-piece combo that bravely tried to provide music for dancing, but their efforts were for naught as the dance floor was smaller than most living rooms. Appropriately, there were no dance hosts on board, but the ship’s officers provided suitable company for unattached ladies.

The swimming pool was not much larger than a good-sized hot tub and it was poorly located, but at least the water was warm.

Our third cruise was on the Crystal Harmony of Crystal Cruises (Los Angeles, CA; 800/446-6620 or www.crystalcruises.com). One of three Crystal ships, the Harmony is the oldest, built in 1989, and is the only one with “inside” cabins. This is a large ship of 51,000 tons, carrying 940 passengers and 545 crew members.

Our cruise, Dec. 9-21, was simply called “Ft. Lauderdale to New Orleans,” with visits to Nassau, Antigua, Martinique, Curacao and Cozumel. Our cabin, No. 8086, measured 198 square feet and had a picture window that was 50% obstructed by a ship’s tender.

It held a queen-sized bed and had a sitting area, adequate closet space and the smallest bath we have experienced since cruising Russian rivers on an East German-built riverboat many years ago. The tub was deep and small, making it very difficult to use. The handheld shower leaked, and the door opened in, making it very difficult to maneuver. We considered the bathroom dangerous.

We booked this cruise through our local agent and Golden Bear Travel. The price we paid was $2,195 each, which included a tour of an ostrich farm and an herbal garden in Curacao plus two cocktail parties again hosted by Carol and Tom Ross of the Mariner Club.

The Crystal Harmony is a beautiful ship and was made additionally attractive by the Christmas decorations found in every area. The Palm Court must be one of the most delightful areas of any ship afloat.

Production shows of Broadway quality were scheduled throughout the cruise, and lectures on diverse topics while at sea were additional attractions. Lessons in French, Spanish, computers, keyboard, bridge, needlepoint, golf and ballroom dancing made choosing one or more difficult.

There were four gentlemen hosts aboard who were kept very busy dancing with the ladies in the Palm Court or the 2100 club. Two 6-piece orchestras assured that dance music was available every evening.

Evening dining aboard the Harmony is a traditional affair with two seatings at assigned tables. Breakfast and lunch are open seating in the main dining room or in the Lido. The quality of the food was excellent, but off-menu choices were more limited than those on the Shadow or Pride. The dress code was similar to that on the other two ships.

The major difference between the Harmony and the other ships was the policy of tipping and paying for drinks. Soft drinks were free, but all beer, wine and liquor was charged at big-city prices plus 15% required gratuity. A modest bottle of wine that could be purchased ashore for $5 ended up costing $30 when bought and served in the dining room, and a bottle of Corona beer was a pricey $4.55 including required tip.

“Suggested” gratuities added another $21 a day to a couple’s bill, without looking at possible tips to buffet waiters, hairdressers, captains, etc. If one chose to eat in either of the two specialty restaurants, another $12 per couple was expected for each such experience.

Beyond onboard service, the failure of the ship to provide shuttle service could be very costly. As one example, a half-mile taxi ride from the ship to town in Martinique cost $10, where both Seabourn and Silversea probably would have provided free transport.

Tender service in Cozumel was the worst we have ever experienced in over 100 cruises. Because of a strong wind, the captain chose not to dock but rather to subject his passengers to waves several feet high, resulting in injuries to several elderly folk.

The ship had two swimming pools, one enclosed and the other on the main deck. The pool in the enclosed area was rather small, but the outdoor pool was huge and the water was warm.

Recognizing that everyone has different criteria for choosing a cruise line, we hesitate to make recommendations, but the following are the guidelines that we will use in the future.

• We will cruise with Seabourn if the ports are extremely interesting and there are very few days at sea.

• We will cruise with Crystal if there are many days at sea and very few in port and the price is right.

• We will cruise with Silversea anyplace and anytime without reservation.

EDWARD J. DURNALL
Durham, NH