Once an economical and easy way to travel around Europe, rail passes over the years had become more of a headache-inducing puzzle. But in 2019, Europe's rail passes underwent some sweeping changes that have made them an affordable option again, and much less confusing to shop for -- and made me nostalgic for their glory days.

As of this year, "Select Passes" -- where you could mix and match countries as you like to suit your itinerary -- are gone....

A walk through the heart of north Dublin recalls Ireland's long fight for independence, and makes a fine introduction to the historical lay of the land.

Start at the O'Connell Bridge, which spans the River Liffey. The river has long divided the wealthy south side of town from the working-class north side. From the bridge, you can see modern Dublin evolving: A forest of cranes marks building sites all over town.

Leading from the...

Dear Globetrotter:

Welcome to the 523rd issue of your monthly foreign-travel magazine. This is the public forum where you can send in your travel experiences, observations and opinions to be printed alongside those of your fellow subscribers. Unlike in online-only forums, however, in this public space the material undergoes fact-checking before being published.

Also, travel companies about whom complaints are written are each given an opportunity to provide a response....