English Lake District

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We'll have about 9 days in the English Lake District next summer. Our primary interests are scenery and moderate hiking. We prefer the less touristy/crowded places. We would appreciate ideas as to how to break up the 9 days in terms of where to stay. Any off-the-beaten-track sights as well as restaurant recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

In the summer the Lake District is always crowded - so there are no less touristy/crowded places. Roads can be clogged, car parks overflowing, tempers fraying. And the roads are so narrow and lack parking places or the sort of pull-ins that Americans and Europeans take for granted in scenic areas. Even so, the scenery here is lovely and probably worth a ton of frustration.

Hotels are generally old-fashioned - ie, chintzy, moderately formal (they like to see men in jackets) and the whole five course set dinner affair. I think the best situated is Sharrow Bay on Lake Ullswater but this is arguably the most chintzy, starchy of the lot. The Samling on Windermere is more contemporary. Linthwaite House has a great view and is vaguely up-to-date. Best food is probably L'Enclume - rated 10/10 in the latest Good Food Guide - in Cartmel: no views, lovely village. The Punchbowl at Crosthwaite is my personal favourite - a converted pub, good food, reasonable prices but not a lakeside setting.

I think 9 days is too long. A week is ample.

You don't have to stay in hotels. There are plenty of B&Bs in the Lake District. It will no doubt be very crowded, but if you hike you might out distance some of the pack.

I last stayed in the Newlands Valley just outside Keswick. I think the place I was at has closed, but these will give you an idea of what's available: http://www.keskadalefarm.co.uk/index.htm
http://www.swinsidefarmhouse.co.uk/index.html

You might also check the National Trust cottages: http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/holidays/holiday-cottages/