This is the January 2020 issue

Features

A frozen river winds through Winnipeg.
Looking for the northern lights in Churchill, Canada
By Marcia Brandes
Appears on Page 6
 
View from atop the Erbil Citadel, looking down at the plaza below.
Finding beauty in Iraqi Kurdistan
By Marilyn Marx Adelman
Appears on Page 20
 
We still do the touristy things, like visiting the Eiffel Tower.
Travel tips for the less able
By Paula Prindle
Appears on Page 40
 

Travelers' Intercom

Volunteer guides in Japan
By Diane Karpel
Appears on Page 14
 
Street in the Quartier Mazarin, Aix-en-Provence, France. Photos by Stephen Addison
Visiting Aix-en-Provence
Appears on Page 14
 
Many of Reykjavík’s buildings and homes are made of corrugated metal. Under the city streets, hot water running through pipes keeps the surface relatively free of snow in the winter. Photos by Deanna Palić
Quick visit to Reykjavík
By Deanna Palić
Appears on Page 17
 
Comparing Crystal, Viking and Silversea cruises
By Judith Anshin
Appears on Page 24
 
Azerbaijan guide follow-up
By Elnur Babayev
Appears on Page 25
 
Regent Seven Seas Explorer transatlantic
By Philip Shart
Appears on Page 26
 
Interior view of the Star Mosque in Dhaka. Photos by Peter Calingaert
Dhaka stopover and Nijhoom Tours
By Peter Calingaert
Appears on Page 28
 
Ukraine independence day scene in Chernihiv, Ukraine. Photo by Tony Leisner.
Eastern Europe with a private guide
By Tony Leisner
Appears on Page 31
 
Praise for Pietro in Puglia
By Linda Libertucci
Appears on Page 34
 
Biking the Danube on the cheap
By Carolyn Dockins
Appears on Page 35
 
Recommended carry-on bags
Appears on Page 37
 
In Shimla, the former residence of the British Viceroy of India now houses the Indian Institute of Advanced Study. Photos by Inga Aksamit
Shimla — cool respite from Delhi 
By Inga Aksamit
Appears on Page 43
 
Private small-group tour with TripUSAFrance
By Alice Meyer
Appears on Page 44
 
Credit cards declined in Baku
By Norm Dailey
Appears on Page 44
 
Switched to smartphone
By Dianne Robbins
Appears on Page 45
 

Calling All Readers! Call for Submissions

Girl with a Pearl Earring by Vermeer
Experience Collections
Appears on Page 17
 

Columns

Travelers in Venice can now enjoy a visit to the Doge’s Palace at night, when crowds are smaller.
What's new in Northern Italy for 2020
Rick Steves' Europe Supplemental

By Rick Steves

 
The pointed arches of Gothic cathedrals allow for dramatic stained-glass windows, such as the ones in Chartres’ cathedral.
Centuries of survival: France's gothic cathedrals
Rick Steves' Europe Supplemental

By Rick Steves

 
Explore the sectarian neighborhoods of Belfast with a local guide who can offer insights and commentary on the area’s political murals.
Belfast blooms with history, resilience
Rick Steves' Europe Supplemental

By Rick Steves

 
In London, the courtyard at Somerset House transforms into an ice-skating rink every year from mid-November to January.
Celebrating a Happy Christmas in England
Rick Steves' Europe Supplemental

By Rick Steves

 
ATMs are a frequent target for travel scams in Europe — if anyone’s around, cover the keypad when entering your PIN.
Transcending travel troubles: Defend yourself against 21st-century travel scams
Rick Steves' Europe Supplemental

By Rick Steves

 
Emergency medical evacuation follow-up
Eye on Travel Insurance

By Wayne Wirtanen
Appears on Page 47
 
Chef Doreen Williams-James with Sea Purslane Fish Cake. Photos by Sandra Scott
What's Cooking in... Bermuda
What's Cooking in...

By Sandra Scott
Appears on Page 48
 
A cruise ship offers memorably fantastic views of the classic whitewashed villages of Santorini. Photo by Cameron Hewitt
Cruise control — how to sail smartly in Europe
Rick Steves' Europe

By Rick Steves
Appears on Page 49
 
Staircase and base of Building A at Dainzú. Photos by Julie Skurdenis.
A trio of Oaxacan sites
Focus on Archaeology

By Julie Skurdenis
Appears on Page 50
 
Randy, with his Totto backpack, and his dog, Princess.
Sharing favorite On-the-Road Travel Tips
Far Horizons

By Randy Keck
Appears on Page 53
 

Funniest Thing

Translator's triumph
By Amy Goltz
Appears on Page 45
 

Where in the World? Correct Answers