Uganda with Avian Safaris

By Fred Koehler
This item appears on page 26 of the July 2014 issue.

My wife, Lorelyn, and I are among many ITN readers who arrive several days before a tour begins to “check things out.” Prior to a 12-day Uganda tour in 2012, we decided to arrange two days of birding for Sept. 29-30.

Lorelyn and Fred Koehler in the Mabamba Bay wetlands.

We contacted Avian Safaris (Zana Entebbe Rd., P.O. Box 71335, 256, Kampala, Uganda; phone +256 782 475961). Guide Crammy Wanyama responded quickly to our emails.

The cost of our 2-day trip was $526, which we paid in cash, large bills, upon our arrival in Entebbe, Uganda. Crammy had told us that small bills, especially those under $20, might not be accepted at banks or would receive a lower exchange rate.

Included in the cost were transportation, fuel, two lunches, park fees, canoe rental and a local guide plus a guide throughout.

On day one we saw 102 bird species. After driving on a dirt road for several miles, Crammy stopped and we walked up a dirt driveway, where we spotted a Ross’s turaco (Musophaga rossae).

The owners of the property walked down the driveway and Crammy met them halfway. He returned with a smile. Seeing our cameras, they had thought we were with the government, there to take their property. The family had never seen binoculars, so we invited them to look through ours. They were amazed.

A shoebill stork in Uganda’s Mabamba Bay wetlands. Photo: Koehler

A visit to Entebbe Botanical Gardens, located on the shore of Lake Victoria, occupied the afternoon, with almost 300 species of plants and towering shade trees providing a tranquil environment.

After a 90-minute drive the next day, we added 56 more bird species to our list at the Mabamba Bay Wetland System, south of Entebbe on Lake Victoria. Crammy arranged for a canoe (V-hulled and big enough to haul a motorcycle) and a sight guide, an expert who could locate specific species of birds.

Number one on our list was a shoebill stork (Balaeniceps rex), a massive, bulky bird four feet tall. There are only 5,000 to 8,000 of them remaining; Crammy and our sight guide, David, spotted three. We were close enough to one to hear the wings scooping large quantities of air on takeoff. It reminded me of a C-17 Globemaster lumbering into flight.

Crammy maximized our two days of birding. We highly recommend Avian Safaris.

FRED KOEHLER

Orange, CA