‘Otherworldly’ Yemen

Yemen proved to be an “otherworldly” experience, unlike any I’ve had. 

Our visit there, Jan. 25-Feb. 1, 2014, was part of a trip with a local guide and driver that had been arranged for two adventurous American women and me by Spie­kermann Travel Service (Eastpointe, MI; 800/645-3233), which advertises in ITN.

The people we met in Yemen were remarkably friendly and welcoming, the arid scenery was like Arizona on steroids, and we traveled through mountains that soared from 6,000 to 11,000 feet (the highest in the Middle East).

Many a mountain was topped with an enchanted ancient village reached by a breath-stopping serpentine road and surrounded by a high, thick wall that we entered through a gate that looked like it came from the “Arabian Nights.”

Since Yemen is mountainous, its climate is brisk and cool, encouraging aerobic walking. 

Yemeni food is varied and delicious, albeit too spicy for most Westerners. 

The old city of Sana’a — reputed to have been established by Shem, the son of Noah, after the flood subsided — merits its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We did see more signs on the walls proclaiming (in an artistic combination of black, green and red) “Death to America” than I have ever seen. Also, there were more fierce-looking tribesmen brandishing semiautomatics than I’ve seen any place outside of Somalia. They vied for the opportunity to have their photos taken with me cradling their weapons. 

I had been advised by many to say I was Canadian, but I assumed the Yemenis might become suspicious if everyone they met were Canadian. I was reluctant to lie, but since my parents had immigrated from Poland, I felt I could claim to be Polish and did so.

The tribesmen’s curiosity to meet and have their photos taken with us foreign tourists trumped any animosity. One of them even gave an automatic rifle to one of the women to hold, something they would never do with their own women.

ALBERT PODELL

New York, NY