Morocco to Milan – traveling solo at 83

by Martha Mangan; Santa Cruz, California

Now that I’ve reached the age of 83, traveling companions are becoming harder to come by due to the financial restrictions and physical impairments of some. After searching for a companion without luck, I decided to go it alone. My May-June 2013 trip would involve traveling to Morocco with a tour company and continuing on to Italy on my own for performances of “The Ring” cycle at La Scala in Milan. 

Making plans

The year 2013 marked the 200th birthday of Wagner, and, being a fan of his marvelous orchestration (though not his personal life), I vowed to see the entire “Ring” as it was meant to be. 

The first step was to discover where and how to get tickets. The Internet, of course, produced the needed information. I ordered tickets online, deciphering the Italian and noting the dates. 

My tickets were on the third tier in a center box — actually excellent even though they were not the most expensive. At the time, the full subscription series cost €1,088 ($1,470) from Vivaticket. This included four performances and two movies, “Ludwig” and “Wagner,” the latter a 7-hour movie with Richard Burton and Vanessa Redgrave not available in the US. 

Having obtained the opera tickets and dates, the next step was to find an apartment close to the opera house. After much searching, I was convinced that any place near the Duomo would also be close to La Scala. 

I was led to www.sabbaticalhomes.com, where I found a rental described as “walking distance to the exclusive district of Milan, opera, Duomo, etc.” This seemed to my liking, so I emailed my interest and received a reply almost immediately. 

The apartment, at Corso di Porta Nuova 20, was in a 6-level corner apartment building with offices on the ground floor and, I was told, was safe to walk to at night. It seemed perfect. 

The cost was approximately €1,500 ($2,026) for 10 nights. Hotels in the area all charged $500 per night. Traveling in the fashion district of Milan is not cheap! 

The booking was accomplished without too much hassle. I was able to use PayPal to send a deposit, and I received directions, etc., by e-mail. 

I found on the Vacations To Go website a trip from Insight Tours that would place me in Morocco the days before “The Ring” began in Milan. I had traveled with them before, so I made the booking. The cost, with a single supplement and excluding airfare, was $1,900.

If I had arrived in Casablanca on the day the tour began, there would have been shuttles from the airport available at various times during the day. However, I used my frequent-flyer miles and there were no flights available on that day, so I took a taxi to my hotel ($35). I find that arriving a day or two early provides breathers and adjustment time, and I recommend this. 

Due to my advancing age, I decided to purchase travel insurance for the first time ever. For $75, I purchased insurance online from Travelex (Omaha, NE; 800/228-9792) and felt it offered adequate coverage. My concern was being covered for emergency medical evacuation if something did happen to me.

Casablanca

On my long taxi ride into Casablanca, not much of the city’s beauty was evident. The ride revealed a crowded and bustling metropolis with garbage piled high in several places. 

There was a dramatic change going from the old part of Casa, as the locals call it, to the Sheraton, where my tour began. 

Since my tour did not start on my arrival day, I booked a room for $70 at Hôtel Transatlantique (70 rue Chaouia). Called a 4-star hotel in the Lonely Planet guide, it fell short of this description. 

The ambiance was quaint and charming and the service was excellent. WiFi was immediately available, unlike at the expensive hotels on our itinerary, and the front desk even loaned me an adapter for my iPad, but be prepared for a hard bed. I folded the comforter over several times and slept on that. 

The only TV show available had coverage of the interior of a mosque during prayers, so don’t expect Western entertainment. 

I was tempted to ask for mosquito repellent, as there were lots of them, but they did not seem to bother me. 

My biggest mistake in preparing for my Morocco journey was not brushing up on French. Most people addressed me in French, and at first I was startled. Soon my knowledge of the language, buried in my university days, popped forth! 

My first meal in Casa was a very small, thin slice of pizza at the hotel. I also ordered a traditional soup. This type of tomato-based soup was served frequently on the trip and was very tasty. The pizza slice had a thin layer of cheese and some tomato sauce and cost, with a large bottle of water, $11. It was freshly prepared, which was a plus, as I was the only person in the dining area. 

A kasbah adjoined the dining room — very picturesque, with several people having drinks. Mostly, green tea with mint was served.

Contrary to what online reviews said, my room was very quiet. I adjusted quickly to the change of time. 

The tour begins

After two nights at the Atlantique, I took a taxi ride across the city to the Sheraton to meet my tour group. I found that the ambiance of “old” Casablanca had been replaced by shiny glitz. The hotel was nothing spectacular. 

We had a buffet dinner in the restaurant and did the usual introductions. Only four others on the tour were from the States; most of the other 40 participants were from Australia. It was a very nice group.

Our tour of Casa led us to the Hassan II Mosque, the largest in the country. The structure can hold 25,000 people, and the courtyard can accommodate 80,000. We then departed for Meknes and Fes. 

In Meknes, we walked briefly through the bazaar, making a stop at the carpet market. We had tea and were shown many rugs. Some of the group members made purchases and the rest of us drank the traditional tea. It was a pleasant interlude to sit and rest after walking through the crowded bazaar. 

The next day took us through the Atlas Mountains. The usual passenger rotation had each traveler moving three seats backward each day. Of course, my turn for the backseat of the bus took place on the day we drove on the roughest road ever! The seat back was rigid and foot room was minimal. However, I managed to get through the day without too much complaining. 

We followed along the edge of an oasis created by a stream of clear water for many miles. In the distance, on one side, were the mountains soaring 13,000 feet high. On the other side was a ribbon of green backed by the multihued desert. 

Soon we reached the “Grand Canyon of Morocco,” which was quite beautiful. Along this valley we saw various oases of fig, olive and date palm trees and, farther away, mud houses on the desert slopes. Goat and sheep herders were spotted all along the way. 

The weather was mild, with a gentle breeze, and there was very little traffic. 

Our next stop was Ouarzazate, the filmmaking capital of Morocco. Our hotel lobby sported a small museum of movie posters and sets. 

The hotel, La Berbère Palace, was very luxurious, with a great swimming/sunning area. 

Marrakesh

The next day we stopped at the village of Aït Benhaddou, on the Tizi n’Tichka Pass, and passed various charming mountain villages, forests and green fields on the way to the beige-colored city of Marrakesh. I had been looking forward to the souk and the spices there, only to be disappointed as I received the hard sell in each shop.

I found the argan oil cosmetic products, a “must buy” in Morocco, to be more expensive in the souk than in the hotel shops. I bought four jars of face cream in Fes for $18; in the souk, the same-size jar was nearly the same price for one! 

In the evening we walked to the large Djemaa el-Fna square, known for its street entertainment. The snake charmers were a must to see, but when I snapped a picture I was approached by the charmer asking for money. Much to my dismay, I did not even get a good picture, only a shot of an elbow! 

We were repeatedly warned of the presence of pickpockets in the area, but no one was robbed and all returned safe. 

We returned to Casa, and the best was saved until last with a dinner at Rick’s Café. All that was missing was Humphrey and Lauren. The dinner (local sea bass) was the best on the trip, elegantly served and tasty. 

Next stop, Milan

I was able to take one of the shuttle rides to the airport for my flight to Milan, changing planes in Madrid. Since the flight was relatively short, I decided not to ask for assistance in getting from one flight to the next. This was a mistake! After landing in Madrid, I asked how far the gate was for my next flight; the attendant said, “Not far.” It was at least a half mile of walking, and I was concerned about missing my flight, though I did make it. 

To further complicate matters, I was late arriving in Milan and could not find my luggage after landing. The lost-luggage desk was very far from the carousels, and I was told various different places to go to search. This made me very late in reaching the apartment. 

When I arrived, my contact was not there to let me in. This is when a Plan B must be in place, and I did not have one! 

I decided to find a hotel close by, even though I had been told that hotels in this area were on the high end. I began walking to the corner to look for a taxi when I saw a woman with a little girl walking toward me. Luckily, she spoke English — and she happened to live in the apartment building!

She was such a nice lady; she invited me in to use the phone, taking my luggage up to the fifth floor where she lived. She called the number for the rental agent in Germany and arranged for someone to come and let me into the apartment. 

Strangely enough, I did not see her again during the 11 days I spent in Milan and the many trips I made in and out of the building. 

My apartment was adequate and was within walking distance of the opera house. My first trip home was after 10 in the evening and it was a bit scary, but after several nights I zipped along quickly and saw several police cars patrolling the area, so I began to feel very safe. 

My first venture out was to purchase supplies for my small kitchen. Nearly every block had a mom-and-pop store with fresh veggies, fruit and bread. This was heaven for me, as I had grown tired of prepared meals. The strawberries and apricots were delicious, and I sampled various freshly baked breads. 

On to the opera

I had asked my landlady for directions to La Scala, so I set out on foot to find it. After several missed turns, I found the correct street, and then each day I walked this same route. 

I had the privilege of viewing the two movies included in my ticket price on a huge screen; it encompassed the entire La Scala stage. During the “Wagner” film, an usher invited me to sit in one of the orchestra seats, as they were not filled. I declined until the first intermission, then I went to an empty seat in the center close to the stage, but I found I preferred my box seat, as I could stretch out. With no other patrons seated there, the box was exclusively mine. I felt like royalty. 

During the actual performances, the music and staging were divine, though I must say that the performance at the New York Met that I had seen broadcast live had much more elaborate staging. However, being in the atmosphere where so many marvelous voices had filled the air with their cadences, I was in heaven. 

The museum adjoining the theater was another treat (entry, €5). It was filled with portraits (including one of a lovely Maria Callas) and costumes from various productions.

Outside the opera

To complete my Milan adventure, I had purchased online an advance ticket ($25) to view the fresco of da Vinci’s “The Last Supper” from Vivaticket. You must arrive early and check in or your place in line will be given away. Only a limited number of visitors are allowed in the refectory, and each visit is limited to 20 minutes.

During the day, the shop windows in this area of Milan displayed an expensive array of clothes. It took me 20 minutes to walk from my apartment to La Scala, the Duomo and the main shopping area. The temperature during my visit was in the upper 80s, so on one occasion I took a taxi for a few blocks. This cost me $5. These areas were crowded but fun for people-watching from the plaza. There was always a place to sit. 

Usually, the time left in a day was spent trying to find a place that I could connect with WiFi to email my family and to catch up on the news. 

One day I took a train ride to Lake Como. This involved my first use of the metro system of Milan, with a station only a block from my apartment. It was very easy to use, with some help from an attendant. 

Check the schedule ahead of time for the daily trips to Como. I missed the express, then had to wait for two hours for the next train. My round-trip cost, including both metro and train tickets, was $10.

My last day in Milan was spent visiting the cathedral and the new modern museum of art located across from it. 

Summing up

As an opera lover, I found the experience of “The Ring” awesome. My box seat and the ambiance of the house lent a magical quality to my visit that is still hard for me to shake. For days after my return home I was in a daze, with Wagner orchestrations roaming through my head. It was well worth the effort.

In an analysis of traveling at my age versus when I was younger, I will freely admit that even though walking is good for the body, when changing planes I will opt for assistance. My hearing is faulty, so I must compensate by asking repeatedly for directions, gate numbers, street numbers and any other important information, sometimes even asking to have it written. Ignore the young with their eyes rolling in impatience; they, too, will be elders someday. 

I also suggest traveling with a bag that does not require lifting to the overhead rack. Finding one that fits under the seat but is large enough to hold necessary items is difficult but can be done. Mine was heavy, but I did not have to ask for assistance to retrieve it.

At the age of 20, there is no backup experience to carry you through difficult situations. At 83, my mishaps in Milan did not panic me, as I knew from experience that things would work out (though it would help to have a backup plan for every possibility at any age).

All in all, it was a most successful trip, reestablishing almost all of my confidence about traveling again.