Ballindalloch Castle, Norweigan Coastal Voyage

Steve, I just wanted to express my appreciation for your article “A Wee Taste of Scotland” in the April ’06 issue. Amazingly, I’ve been to all of the places you mentioned. We’ve visited many Scotch whisky distilleries, and Strathisla is our favorite. But most of all, I appreciated the mention of Ballindalloch Castle. Surprisingly, I know nobody else who has been there. It’s probably the most picture-perfect castle I’ve ever seen, and I had the best ploughman’s lunch ever in its tearoom. One question — how does one pronounce Ballindalloch? We got slightly lost on our way there and asked a Scottish couple for directions. They looked at us in total bewilderment, so we knew we had it wrong. Always enjoy your column. — Ruth Sickafus, Taloma Park, MD

Dear Ruth, thanks sincerely for your compliments. Years ago I ran across the English family name “Cholmondeley.” When I told my wife about it, she, who is much smarter and better read than I, corrected how I had pronounced it, saying the proper way is “Chumley.”

Closer to home, we’ve learned that Worcestershire (as in sauce) is actually pronounced “Woo-stir-shear.” And Leicester (as in Leicester Square in London) is “Lester.” In Scotland, Edinburgh is sounded as “Ed-in-burra.” We once had a Scottish employee named Carol who we renamed Scotty because we already had two other Carols. Her Scottish maiden name had been Menzies, which in Scotland, amazingly, is pronounced, “Ming-is.”

During your trip, you probably said the castle’s name well enough, which is pronounced “Ball-in-DAL-lock,” with the emphasis on the third syllable. Maybe they just didn’t understand the rest of what you said with your foreign (to them) accent.

Steve, I have long wanted to make the cruise up the Norwegian coast to Kirkenes or the North Cape on the Hurtigruten ASA shipping line. It is my understanding that this line may cut back its daily sailings after Norway’s transportation infrastructure (rail and highway) has been expanded.

Because, year-round, a different ship departs from Bergen each day, each with a capacity of 100 to 200 passengers, there must be an opportunity to obtain a “last-minute” economical fare for the cruise. Could you tell me how best to obtain passage instead of making reservations through a travel agency? — Stephen D. Warner, Tampa, FL

Dear Stephen, old Leonard Thatcher was the first person I booked on this cruise. He’d been a local high school math and science teacher since the 1920s and wanted to go to the top of the world to celebrate his 80th birthday. This was just one of the many always-interesting trips we planned for him, including the time he led for me a group of his former students (mostly retired by that time) to Fiji when he was 83. At 86 I sent him to the Amazon River, where he wanted “to do some water skiing.”

It sounds like you’ve got some of his adventuresome spirit, since the Norwegian coastal cruise is a trip that experienced travelers often aspire to. Its seven days northbound or 12 days round trip, averaging more than five ports a day. Because the stops are repeated in each direction, Mr. Thatcher took the trip just one way.

The name you gave the ship line is correct, but outside of Norway the company Hurtigruten ASA is known as Norwegian Coastal Voyage, Inc. (405 Park Avenue, New York, NY 10022; phone 800/323-7436 or 212/319-1300 or visit www.coastalvoyage.com). The capacity of their ships ranges from 314 to 675 passengers (berths), with daily departures year-round. Locals often use these cruises for everyday transportation, but the majority of passengers are tourists out to enjoy one of the world’s most spectacular sea journeys. Hence, be advised that you should book well in advance.

I communicated with the president of Norwegian Coastal Voyage and he said, “There is no talk about cutting back on the coastal service, and I’m not quite sure where that rumor comes from.”

He speculated that because the line is expanding with new itineraries this year, this might have created a perception of limiting the focus on the Norwegian coast. He says that, in fact, they have enhanced their coastal shore experiences and added new ports of call.

You can book direct with them. They offer a wide variety of cabin choices from luxurious suites down to cozy insides, and discounts are available for advance bookings, for seniors 67 and over and during the tourist off-season.

I tried to find a way to get a “last-minute” discount but was told that because the ships are so full, the best a person who waits can hope for is simply to get on at any cost.

Incidentally, I might remind you that the price of booking this cruise through a travel agent is identical with booking direct, and if you find a good agent you can get help with pre- and post-travel and hotels as well as shore excursions. The newer vessels take cars, so you can sail one way and drive the other.

Something to be aware of — three meals a day are included, but you’ll not find a vast range of shipboard entertainment. On this route, the dazzling scenery is the entertainment.

—Ask Steve is written by Steve Venables.