Spain plus Italy and Corsica — cruising with Swan Hellenic

by Beth Habian, Features Editor

he architecture spoke the loudest — the hushed whisper of a fourth-century Italian basilica, the resonating refrains of a Gothic Spanish cathedral and the swelling scream of Gaudí’s unfinished masterwork, reaching for the sky. But there were other voices, too: the delicate trickle of fountains, the papery rustle of palm trees swaying in the wind and the excited chatter of bustling crowds vying for goods in the local marketplace.

The Mediterranean was calling, and I came a’runnin’!

And what better way to travel the Mediterranean than by ship — or, rather, as Swan Hellenic refers to the Minerva II, a floating country house?

While I must admit that I had shied away from cruises in the past (I have a tendency toward motion sickness and an almost pathological aversion to participating in perky group activities on the Lido Deck), cruising the Swan Hellenic way completely changed my mind.

Getting there

On my May ’05 cruise we would visit Italy, Corsica and Spain. But first I had to get to London, the starting point for most Swan Hellenic passengers.

My flight from San Francisco to London-Heathrow on Virgin Atlantic Airways (phone 800/821-5438 or visit www.virgin-atlantic.com) was a refreshing experience. It has been quite a while since I could honestly say I enjoyed, rather than just tolerated, a transatlantic flight.

With dedicated seating in the upper deck of the plane, the space, service and little extras offered in Premium Economy, available for the price of a full-fare economy ticket, actually made the time (please excuse the pun) fly by. My personal favorite “extra” was the miniature carton of Ben & Jerry’s ice cream that appeared at snack time!

Another added bonus, for me, was the movie selection offered on board. I can never sleep during a flight, so it was great to have a personal monitor on which I could select from about 40 movies, not to mention TV shows and video games. And, unlike on most flights where movies run in 2-hour loops, each selection could be started, stopped, rewound or fast-forwarded like you would do at home. In this age of smaller seats and fuller planes, it’s the little things that I appreciate.

After arriving at Heathrow’s Terminal 3, I hopped on the Heathrow Express, free to passengers traveling from terminal to terminal, and headed for Terminal 4. (Be prepared for a bit of walking, but the route to the train is well marked.)

From inside the terminal, a walk down a covered corridor led to the superbly located 4-star Heathrow Hilton (phone 011 44 208 759 7755 or visit www.hilton.co.uk), a lovely modern hotel with a very pleasant staff and, I must say, the most comfortable bed I have ever slept on. Room rates at the Hilton run around £200 ($360) per room, double.

Early the next day I headed back to Terminal 4 and the Swan Hellenic-dedicated departure gate for my Qantas charter flight to Genoa.

Setting sail

We arrived in Genoa to a torrent of rain, but not to worry as the Swan crew was waiting with umbrellas to guide passengers to the waiting buses. At the port, we were whisked through a very well organized boarding process, then directed immediately to The Bridge restaurant for a casual buffet lunch. In the meantime my luggage, which I hadn’t touched since checking it in London, was delivered to my cabin.

The rest of the afternoon was free for unpacking, unwinding and getting familiar with the ship before we set sail in the morning for Savona, Italy.

While I won’t bore you with a site-by-site review of on-land excursions, I will say that I was immensely impressed by the selection of included options available at each port of call. There were usually four or five choices (in Barcelona, there were eight!), varying from shuttle transportation for those who wanted to explore on their own to guided tours, including coach tours for those who preferred to ride and walking tours for passengers who were up for a bit of exercise.

I also found it extremely helpful that each listed excursion included a walking content rating, complete with the type of terrain to be covered and notation of available bathroom facilities.

One supplemental excursion was also offered at most stops, typically a food or wine tasting tour or a full-day excursion that required a bit of driving and included lunch. The fee for each of these tours was quite reasonable, I felt, from £14 to £41 ($25-$74).

My only real disappointment came with my first tour choice. While a full-day walking tour of Genoa sounded appealing, I didn’t know if I would be able to fend off jet lag long enough to really enjoy myself on my first day out. Instead, I chose the half-day walking tour of Albenga, a small medieval town brimming with historical sites.

The town was lovely and the tour was well organized, but, as this was the option “recommended” by Swan Hellenic, there were far too many visitors for this tiny town. I appreciated the architecture and history of the town but left feeling like an invading tourist, not a humble traveler.

Following this uneasy start, I did find all of the other excursions to be wonderful.

Barcelona

The place that stands out most when I think back on this trip is Barcelona — what a fabulous city! I have always wanted to see for myself the undulating curves of Gaudí’s creations, but I came away from my short stay overwhelmed by the wealth of architectural treasures that line almost every street.

Unfortunately, we were again greeted by rain, although this was the only tour day that did not offer favorable weather. I had prebooked a walking tour for the afternoon, but at the last minute I was also able to get space on the 3-hour coach tour that was offered in the morning. It was a great way to get an overview of the city without getting soaked through.

I sat transfixed as we rolled by ornately ornamented apartment houses, a riotously painted bullring, fabulous modernista façades and, soaring to the skies from the crowded streets below, giant fruit! The ceramic fruit which sit atop the spires of the unfinished La Sagrada Família sing out in bright red, yellow and orange — just one more element to draw the eye heavenward.

The afternoon held a surprise that most wouldn’t necessarily think of including on a first visit to Barcelona: the remains of an ancient Roman city. The Museu d’Història de la Ciutat is home to an underground archaeological site, measuring 4,000 square meters and stretching below the Plaça del Rei, that was once the Roman colony of Barcino.

The unearthed ruins dating from the first century B.C. to the eighth century A.D. are not grand, by any means — I saw no complete structures, merely the footprint of what once stood — but it did give me a sense of what everyday life might have been like for its former inhabitants. I would recommend a visit.

Granada and Sevilla

Perhaps my favorite day overall featured a full-day tour of Granada, departing from the port of Málaga. While the masses headed out for The Alhambra, I decided to save that for another day, choosing instead a tour of the city. The elaborate cathedral was breathtaking, and I thoroughly enjoyed our stroll through the Albaicín, Spain’s largest surviving Moorish quarter, but what really made this day special was our guide, Robert Muguerza, who did an exceptional job of sharing his city with us. The fabulous weather didn’t hurt, either!

Another full-day excursion (this one supplementary, costing an extra £40, or $72, per person) took me to Sevilla from the port of Cádiz. The architecture here is incredible, especially that of the city’s immense Gothic cathedral and the intricately detailed Mudéjar buildings of the Alcázar, but I think what remain foremost in my memory are the cascades of bright bougainvillea, the intoxicating smell of orange trees and the haunting melody that drifted from a lone street musician’s guitar, echoing off the walls of the narrow alleyways as we passed into the Barrio de Santa Cruz (the medieval Jewish quarter). It is a magical place.

The rest of the stops weren’t too shabby either! When we arrived on the island of Corsica, I understood the point of a vacation where you do nothing more strenuous than stroll through the daily market or sit for hours at an outdoor café. And at our final stop, Gibraltar, I was amazed by a visit to St. Michael’s Cave, dripping with stalactites and boasting a unique stage for concerts and theatrical performances.

While I try to be brutally honest in reviewing any trip, I also believe in giving credit where credit is due, and my Swan Hellenic experience was fantastic. While a cruise doesn’t provide the type of in-depth local experience that you might get when staying in a single destination for an extended period of time, this one did offer a good overview of each city visited while providing a comfortable, relaxed atmosphere on board.

About Swan Hellenic

If you prefer a nice selection of dining venues available at set mealtimes rather than 24-hour buffets overflowing with food, educational lectures instead of Vegas-style stage shows, and a quiet afternoon spent in a cozy, wood-paneled library in place of an onboard casino, then a Swan Hellenic cruise might be just what you’re looking for.

Swan Hellenic, based in Southampton, U.K., operates only one ship, the Minerva II, and offers cruises year-round to cities in Asia, Africa, Europe, the U.K., Latin America and the Caribbean, including lesser-known stops.

A major plus for travelers is the all-inclusive cruise price, which covers round-trip airfare between London and Minerva II (when applicable), transfers to and from the ship, a variety of shore excursions at each port, all entry fees and, both on board and ashore, all gratuities. It’s nice to know just what you’re spending before you leave home rather than being hit by added expenses for every activity and having to have cash on hand to tip at every turn.

Passengers on Minerva II predominantly are British, and I was amazed to hear, time and again, how many had taken voyages with Swan repeatedly, some travelers boasting as many as 40-plus cruises. When I arrived on board, I watched passengers and staff greet each other like old friends, discussing family and catching up.

Dining on board

The open-seating plan in each of the ship’s dining venues afforded me the opportunity to get to know my fellow passengers, while smaller tables were available for those who didn’t feel much like talking. And for passengers who aren’t at their best in the morning, the Dining Room offers the option of a “quiet table” set away from the cheerful morning people.

Casual buffet dining is available at The Bridge, or passengers can dress for dinner in the Dining Room. I chose The Bridge most often, as the variety of dishes offered was diverse, from characteristically British to Mediterranean and Asian inspired.

The Grill, which offers steak, fish and a number of à la carte dishes, and The Swan Restaurant, with a more Mediterranean menu, require reservations. (A form is provided at the beginning of the cruise. Just pick a day and pop down to Reception to save your spot; the earlier you turn in your request, the better your chance of getting the time you want.) I didn’t make arrangements to try out The Grill, but my meal at The Swan Restaurant was delicious.

Accommodations

My cabin on Minerva II, a “Superior” with balcony, included twin beds (which could be arranged as a queen), a spacious seating area, a roomy-for-a-cruise-ship bathroom and an abundance of storage space.

Upkeep on board was impeccable. My cabin was always tidied and the garbage emptied several times a day if I was in and out. On one occasion I returned from an all-day excursion to find the balcony had been repainted!

In fact, all of the crew members were very attentive — always ready with a smile and an offer of assistance.

For more information on Swan Hellenic’s offerings, phone 877/800-SWAN (U.S. and Canada) or visit www.swanhellenic.com.

Travel tips

• Currency exchange is offered aboard Minerva II, but rates are based on British pounds. Therefore, if you wish to exchange dollars, they will have to be converted into pounds, then into the currency of the country visited. I would recommend exchanging money before arrival on the ship or at your destination, if time allows.

Onboard expenses, including gift shop and bar purchases, are all charged to your personalized Cruise Card, which also serves as your cabin key and is scanned each time you leave or return to the ship. Accounts are settled before final disembarkation, so cash is not needed on board.

• A full day at sea is a great opportunity to schedule a massage or other spa service, but be advised to book as soon as possible (the day of boarding would be best). Many passengers have the same idea and appointments fill up fast.

• While many excursions need to be prebooked before boarding, the staff at the Swan Information Centre is very helpful should you want to fit in an extra tour or change your mind after boarding, providing space is available.

Booking a Swan Hellenic cruise

Cost for the 7-day “Memories of Napoleon” cruise aboard Minerva II ranged from $3,116 to $4,277 per person for Standard to Deluxe cabins. (More cabin grades are available, including the more-than-900-square-foot Owner’s Suite, should you really feel like splashing out.)

This portion, combined with the one-week “Explorers & Armadas” cruise, which continued to ports in Spain and Portugal and ended in Dover, could be booked as the 14-day “Treasures of Empires” cruise, ranging from $5,572 to $7,893.

Early-booking discounts are available on selected cruises, and booking back-to-back cruises offers substantial additional savings (applicable to cruises of at least 14 days each).

Beth Habian was the guest of Swan Hellenic Cruises.