Tonga — a South Pacific paradise

by Penny Strohl, Oakland, CA

Having stopped at the tiny Tonga airport on our way to New Zealand a few years beforehand, our curiosity was piqued and we were determined to return and find out more about the “Friendly Isles.” Wendy Schatz of Travel Downunder put together an economical and near-perfect package for us.

On Nov. 9, ’04, we flew from San Francisco to Los Angeles, where we picked up a 9½-hour flight to Samoa. After a one-hour stopover, we continued on the 1½-hour flight to Fua’amotu International Airport on Tonga’s main island of Tongatapu.

Our first stop was Fafa Island Resort (fax 676/23592 or visit www.fafa.to), set on its own tiny private island, a 30-minute boat ride away. After such a long plane trip, it was great fun to be out on the water and exciting to watch Fafa Island getting closer and closer.

We were warmly welcomed on the sandy shores and taken to the lovely, open-air dining room, where we enjoyed a refreshing tropical drink.

Island accommodations

Joseph’s charming wife, Renate, escorted us to our fale, “Felila.” The fales are made from all native plant materials, each in a private setting. Sitting on our little front deck, we looked out on a banyan tree with mobiles made of shells hanging from its branches. A hammock beckoned, as did a tiny path which led to a perfect beach.

The bathroom deserves special mention. Set off of the main room, the bathroom was outdoors — completely enclosed, private and filled with lush tropical vegetation. Solar heat provided us with all the hot water we needed.

On our very first night, the cheerful staff prepared the weekly barbecue. Overlooking the incredible blue waters of the Pacific and listening to the beautiful music being played by some of the staff, we enjoyed many delicious salads as well as barbecued fish, chicken and beef.

We were too tired after our long journey to stay for the after-dinner entertainment — music and dance provided by staff members and their families — but we could hear the music from our fale. What a nice way to drift off on our first night in Tonga.

Day tour

We had five nights at Fafa Resort, which was just right. One day we took a tour of the island of Tongatapu, arranged by the resort’s staff. We were very fortunate that the tour was offered on a Sunday, as Sundays are very quiet in Tonga; it’s a day for going to church, resting and eating.

In fact, we were doubly fortunate, as we were able to attend a church service at the huge Centenary Chapel. In attendance was his majesty, 86-year-old King Taufa’ahau Tupou IV. The singing, accompanied at times by a brass ensemble, was breathtaking.

It was interesting to see adults and little boys wearing their pandanus mats, “skirts” made from plant material and worn over the clothing. These are worn on special occasions and are a sign of respect to the king. The little girls were darling in their frilly dresses.

This very interesting tour included lunch at the home of our guide. There must have been dozens of dishes covering the table — local specialties, including fish or corned beef wrapped in taro leaves and cooked underground.

Our tour also included the dramatic Mapu’a’a Vaca blowholes and several ancient burial sites plus a look at the “fishing” pigs who dig up shellfish at low tide. Finally, we visited the fascinating 11th-century Ha’amonga Trilithon, three huge stones in a Stonehenge type of arrangement.

Sand and surf

The island of Foa, one of the 60 islands forming the Ha’apai Group, was our next stop. Our home on this quiet, nontouristed island was Sandy Beach Resort (phone/fax 676/60600 or visit www.sandybeachresort.de) — efficiently run, in typical German style, by Jürgen and Sigrid. Our cool concrete bungalow was a few steps from the tropical beach of our dreams — miles of white sand covered with shells. We stayed here three days. Again, just the right amount of time.

These idyllic days were spent relaxing at our outdoor table, gazing out at the changing colors of the ocean, reading and, of course, swimming. At least twice a day we wandered along the gorgeous beach picking up shells. Although we don’t snorkel or dive, these activities were enjoyed by other guests.

We were sorry to have missed whale season by only a week. Mothers and their babies, born in these warm waters, often can be seen from the bungalows.

One day Jürgen took a few guests on an interesting bush walk. Jürgen is a wealth of information on every aspect of life on Ha’apai, not just the flora and fauna.

Vava’u

Then we were off to our last stop, Vava’u and the Tongan Beach Resort, on a 30-minute flight over the most exquisite turquoise water dotted with dozens of little islands.

The Tongan Beach Resort (phone/fax 676/70380 or visit www.thetongan.com) is about a 20-minute drive from the main town of Nieafu. Our accommodations — one-half of a large bure, or bungalow — faced the Bay of Refuge and a little strip of beach.

Dieter was our host here. Anxious (as were all our hosts) to bring tourism to Tonga, Dieter has planned a number of enticing and reasonably priced packages for 2005 that include accommodations, meals and special activities.

Island explorations

One hot day we went out for a half-day excursion on the water. Rose, Dieter’s very efficient and friendly assistant, arranged a covered boat for us because of the heat. Niva, the pilot, takes guests out most every day, usually to take advantage of the wonderful snorkeling and diving. But we were perfectly content to simply motor along, enjoying the gorgeous water and views of the tiny islands.

At Swallows Cave — actually inhabited by hundreds of swiftlets — it was eerie to cross into the deep cave where one shaft of light shone dramatically down through a hole in the ceiling. Unfortunately, there was graffiti on the walls of the cave.

“Very bad,” said Niva.

“Yes,” we certainly agreed.

Another day it was a land tour with Peter Halaapiapi (phone/fax 676/70014 or e-mail melekato@yahoo.com.nz) and his sweet wife, Melé. In air-conditioned comfort, with beautiful Tongan music playing on the CD player, we toured Vava’u Island.

Our first stop was Mt. Talau. We drove as far as possible until the narrow road became a trail. The hike up to the top was quite challenging at times as we clambered over tree roots and jagged volcanic rock, but the spectacular views of the town of Neiafu, the Port of Refuge and surrounding waters was well worth it.

After a stop at Peter and Melé’s home for refreshing watermelon drinks and slices, our tour continued. We drove past vanilla plantations and acres of coconut, breadfruit, taro, tapioca, mango and papaya. It is certainly possible to live off the land here!

All in all, it was a very enjoyable day. Peter and Melé are very caring and they made certain we were always comfortable.

Saying good-bye

How to (reluctantly) end this dream of a tropical vacation? How about dinner in a tree house? Yes! In fact, twice during our four nights at the Tongan Beach Resort we had a romantic dinner for two at a beautifully set table nestled in the branches of a tree at the water’s edge.

The sweet ladies from the dining room cheerfully climbed up the short ladder, bringing us drinks and food. The table was covered with lovely frangipani blossoms.

What could make it even more perfect? An impossibly gorgeous sunset!

So, with this memory and all the others with us forever, the morning came when it was time to start the long journey home. Bedecked in leis made by Rose, it was back to the “big” airport on Tongatapu, then on to Samoa, Los Angeles and eventually San Francisco.

A Persian proverb says, “The world is a rose; smell it and pass it to your friends.” Tonga is truly a rose to be passed on.