“Travel insurance can’t protect you everywhere in this dangerous world. You need to check out your destination — and don’t take anything for granted — to verify if Travel Warnings have been issued against it by your government. If they have, your insurance may be invalid or severely restricted.

“As of the end of March 2009, the US State Department had 29 countries on its Travel Warnings list, which is ‘issued to describe long-term, protracted conditions that make a country dangerous or unstable.’ A Travel Warning is also issued when the US Government’s ability to assist its citizens is constrained due to closure of an embassy or consulate. These Warnings are not placed casually; there are many political ramifications for governments that warn their citizens not to travel to another country.

“Currently, Canada’s Department of Foreign Affairs & International Trade has officially listed Travel Warnings for 57 countries, emphasizing that travelers should either avoid nonessential travel to the designated country or to a specific region(s) of it, or avoid all travel to the country or to specific region(s) of it.

“And should you think these are all remote narco-havens or tribal kingdoms in deepest Africa, have a look at some on the US list: Israel, the Philippines, Algeria… Colombia, Lebanon, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Syria and more.

“The Canadian government’s list is even more extensive, listing most of the above plus countries such as Albania, Armenia, Ecuador, India, Indonesia, Maylasia, Panama, Russia and Venezuela. This includes advisories to avoid all nonessential travel, all travel or travel to certain specific parts of those countries.

“What does a Travel Warning mean for your travel insurance? Though you will find some variation in benefit restrictions among individual travel insurers in the US and Canada, they often cancel or restrict benefits to countries that were on the official Warning lists before you bought your insurance. In effect, travel to a country on the list and you’re on your own for medical emergencies, evacuations, costs or prepaid reservations, baggage loss and many of those other benefits for which you bought insurance.

“What this means to you is that no matter where you travel, it is essential you first check the status of that country on the official government Warnings list, and then specifically research your policy for its limitations on travel to listed countries.

“And don’t be satisfied with old information or the urgings of friends or relatives who visited such and such a place a year ago and found it perfectly safe and friendly. That kind of anecdote doesn’t hold water when arguing benefit limitations with an insurer armed with an official government Warning.

“Circumstances change overnight. A bomb explodes, a riot erupts, ‘students’ take to the streets, civil authorities lose control, an epidemic erupts in ‘paradise’ and all the rules change. This kind of pre-travel check is now essential. Only a novice traveler would neglect it.”

My comments and advice

First of all, notice that the Canadian Travel Warnings list includes some countries that the US government differentiates by placing them on a second list of lesser cautions titled “Advisories, Consular Information Sheets and Public Announcements.” These announcements generally deal with short-term problems and typically advise “Avoid all nonessential travel” to a particular country and sometimes only to specific areas.

If you are reading this, you know that ITN’s News Watch section has pages of detailed information on the complete range of travelers’ concerns, including, of course, the list of countries with Travel Warnings. Contact information also is provided for the State Department and the Centers for Disease Control & Prevention.

If you are planning a trip, contact one or two tour companies that are offering tours to your potential destination and ask about safety factors there. Tour companies usually have very detailed information regarding their areas of specialization. It’s not uncommon for there to be health and/or other safety factors in play in a country but not necessarily along the “tourist trails.”

It’s my opinion that State Department Warnings and Advisories can sometimes be biased on the alarmist side. Do not ignore these warning statements; instead, do a little Internet and telephone research.

Travel to “warning” countries

But what if you want/need to go to one of those “warning” countries? Can you get travel insurance?

The answer is ‘Yes.’ One travel insurance company, ihi BUPA, will write you a policy so that you will be protected “anywhere, anytime, doing anything (except motorized racing).” The upper age limit is 79. Premiums will be stiff, but you will be protected.

I always have two basic recommendations for overseas travelers:

1) Always have coverage for medical expenses and emergency medical evacuation. (Also take cash and two credit cards with good available balances.)

2) Buy your travel insurance from a travel insurance broker such as Dan Drennen of World Travel Center (Omaha, NE; phone 402/343-3621 or e-mail dan@travelinsurancecenter.com).

Your travel agent is in the business of travel and might be selling only one company’s policies. A travel insurance broker is in the business of travel insurance. He not only has access to many insurance companies’ offerings but can advise you about any insurance problems with your destination and get you appropriate coverage.

Reading material

I have found several books with advice and descriptions of travel hazards.

“Don’t Go There” by Peter Greenberg (2008, Rodale Books, New York, NY. ISBN 9781605299945 — 320 pp., $17.95 paperback) — the travel detective’s essential guide to the must-miss places of the world.

One place that Greenberg lists which I’m quite familiar with is Cleveland, Ohio. He suggests avoiding one of the most dangerous neighborhoods, St. Clair-Superior, which stretches from East 70th Street to East 123rd Street.

I lived in this very lower-middle-class neighborhood back in the ’30s when it was quiet and peaceful. I could go out to play for hours and my parents would know that I’d show up promptly at dinnertime. Recently, my father refused to even drive me into the area to visit old stamping grounds. It’s now, as Greenberg describes, “a danger zone.”

“Unsafe on the High Seas: Your Guide to a Safer Cruise” by Charles R. Lipcon (2008, I. Adels, Inc., Miami, FL. ISBN 9780979780707 — 116 pp., $14.95 paperback) — probably not a favorite publication of the cruise industry. Lots of tips here, but I’ve not been a “cruiser” so don’t know how practical and valuable those tips are.

“I Really Should Have Stayed Home: The Worst Journeys from Harare to Eternity,” edited by Roger Rapoport and Bob Drews (2001, RDR Books, Oakland, CA. ISBN 978-1571430816 — 294 pp., $17.95 paperback) — short travelogues, mostly humorous but not necessarily so to the travelers at the time. Frequently, each debacle was caused by a traveler doing some dumb thing.

For armchair adventurers/mercenaries, punch up Comebackalive.com, Robert Young Pelton’s website. From his book “World’s Most dangerous Places” (2003, Collins Reference, London, UK. ISBN 978-0060011604 — 1,088 pp., $22.95 paperback), I keep one of his safety tips in mind: “If you are going to drive along a road that you suspect might be mined, go early in the morning and follow a large truck at a safe distance.” Better safe than sorry!

Bottom line

Don’t let all of the above information deter you from international travel; just let it remind you to “be good — and if you can’t be good, be careful.”

Happy trails!

by Inga Aksamit, San Rafael, CA

Many travelers to Asia find themselves with a layover in Hong Kong, a thriving metropolis of seven million people where East collides with West. Reclaimed by China in 1997 but still a melting pot of international commerce, Hong Kong is awash in gleaming highrises and blinking neon signs touting some of the biggest names in business.

If you arrive in Hong Kong after a long flight en route to another Asian destination, there are worse places to sleep off jet lag and begin acclimating to the time zone and culture changes. Hong Kong has a reputation for being a very expensive place to visit, but my husband, Steve, and I found some ways to explore and enjoy without breaking the bank.

Where to stay

Lodging is likely to be your greatest expense. If you have any hotel points squirreled away in frequent-stay programs, Hong Kong is an ideal place to use them as many Western hotel chains have properties there.

On our October ’08 visit, we used Marriott points to stay at a lovely Courtyard by Marriott, which turned out to be shiny and new and unlike any Courtyard I’ve experienced in the US. A sleek and modern highrise, it was upscale, with attentive staff, many amenities and a full-service restaurant which served first-rate food (I gorged on dim sum every morning at the breakfast buffet).

Located in the Western District, adjacent to the downtown Central District, it was accessible by multiple forms of public transportation. We took the very convenient Airport Express train from the airport to downtown, then hailed a cab for the short ride to the hotel since we were not yet familiar with the tram and subway.

During our stay, we rode the historic, charming double-decker trams frequently, sometimes riding them to the end of the line and back, just to get off our feet. Running along the waterfront, they are a bargain at HK$2 (US26¢) per person.

Discovering Hong Kong

I stumbled upon Hong Kong’s tourism website while doing some pretrip research and was enthralled with the idea of completing the walking tours described there.

Several walking tours are described in a downloadable format, including detailed maps, which are easy to print and take with you. I printed three but primarily used the “Central & Western District” tour, deviating a bit to catch the Peak Tram before picking up the Wan Chai tour.

We started the walking tour near our hotel at the Western Market, noting the not-unpleasant mild odor of dried seafood that wafted through the neighborhood. Almost every shop was crammed to the rafters with innumerable varieties of dried fish, and the aroma became our wake-up call to pay attention to where we were going. When we smelled the fish odor, it meant we were near our hotel.

Proceeding along Wing Lok Street to Des Voeux Road and down Ko Shing Street, we passed through neighborhoods specializing in shops carrying specific wares, including ginseng and birds’ nests, used to ensure longevity and energy, an exotic assortment of dried fish and, finally, a dizzying array of dried herbs used in the flourishing medicinal trade.

We then entered the antiques neighborhood, but we were there too early so most of the shops were closed. More interested in sightseeing than shopping, we headed toward Man Mo Temple for a fascinating glimpse into the traditional past, the small temple overshadowed by the urban structures surrounding it.

As we entered the Taoist temple, thick clouds of fragrant smoke drifted down from cones of incense suspended from the ceiling, caressing our olfactory senses with the sweetly pungent aroma emanating from the smoldering coils.

A unique attraction

An unusual and well-known feature of Hong Kong is the longest series of outdoor covered escalators in the world (800 meters). Known as the Mid-Levels Escalators, they connect downtown to the Mid-Levels area, where many highrise residences are located.

They are in heavy use by residents, who include many expatriates, during commute hours. The escalators run downhill from 6 a.m. to 10 a.m., then uphill for the rest of the day until midnight.

We took a 20-minute ride up and observed many shops and cafés located across the narrow walkway that runs alongside the escalators. We deviated here from the walking tour in favor of riding all the way to the top, where we encountered a helpful map posted near the exit of the escalator.

Signs directed us toward the zoo and the Peak Tram. At the zoo, we walked through a lovely aviary and garden that was free of charge. The heat and humidity were building, so we rested on a bench and enjoyed the grounds for a short time.

The Peak Tram

The Peak Tram is located across the street from the zoo. It provides transportation up an exceedingly steep hill, ranging from a gradient of four to 27 degrees, for HK$49 (US$6).

The reward at the top of the 1.4-kilometer funicular railway is a beautiful panoramic view of the harbor, Hong Kong and Kowloon. From the other side, views to the south surprised us with wide swaths of green, beaches and expansive views of the South China Sea.

We enjoyed the views but didn’t enjoy running the gauntlet through the multiple escalators wending through an overcommercialized multilevel mall pulsing with music and jam-packed with jewelry, high-end international clothiers and tacky tourist knickknacks to get to the viewing platform — a minor inconvenience.

We took pleasure in the cooling breezes at the higher elevation, a welcome respite from the steaming temperatures as the sun rose higher in the sky.

Wan Chai

Descending via the Peak Tram, we made our way through the now-fetid air and walked toward Des Voeux Road to catch the tram to Wan Chai to begin the Wan Chai District walking tour. This bustling, crowded neighborhood is described as an endless series of reclamation projects, starting with the creation of the neighborhood, which used to stand in Hong Kong Harbour water.

We went down a narrow street buzzing with the activity of the Tai Yuen Street Market, filled with stalls selling food, clothing, pipes, toilets and anything else one can think of.

We had some difficulty locating the tiny Hung Shing Temple, probably due to the effects of jet lag taking over, but we were glad we persevered, as it, like the Man Mo Temple, is enchantingly out of place, wedged in between apartments on the busy street and built around a large boulder.

Star Ferry journey

We proceeded toward the harbor and passed through the Southern Playground. Becoming a bit weary, we again became distracted from the walking tour and started following signs to the Star Ferry, finding a large ferry terminal on the other side of the huge Convention Center.

Feeling drowsy and ready to get off our feet, we took a ferry (HK$2.20, or US30¢) to Tsim Sha Tsui, located across the harbor on the Kowloon side, for no reason other than to get out on the water and get another view of the city.

We disembarked from the Star Ferry on a mission to find the landmark Peninsula Hotel, still one of the world’s grandest hotels, as it has been since its opening in 1928. Located in a majestic colonial building overlooking Victoria Harbour, it is world renowned for its luxury, maintaining a fleet of 14 Rolls-Royce limos and its own helipad.

Gazing at the throne-like exterior evoked almost-forgotten memories of my first trip to Asia. Just four years old, I was being toted around by my mother en route to joining my father in Lahore, Pakistan, where we would live for the next four years, the beginning of endless adventures around the globe for our family.

Suffering from jet lag, culture shock and general toddler petulance, I reached the end of my rope during a stay at the Peninsula Hotel, diving under a white-linen-bedecked table and refusing to come out of my safe refuge. Luckily for us, the polished staff took it all in stride and coaxed me out with beautifully folded origami animals that they made on the spot, to my mother’s great relief.

The area surrounding the Peninsula Hotel has been taken over by international retailers, and I felt like we could have been at any one of a number of shopping districts in the US (Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles, Union Square in San Francisco and Kalakaua Avenue in Honolulu came to mind) — lots of energy but hardly unique.

Wrapping up our first day, we took the ferry back to the Central District and hopped on a tram to get home. We were ready for a nap but felt a sense of accomplishment, since we managed to stay up all day and see a large chunk of Hong Kong as our friends back home slumbered through the night.

Hiking in Hong Kong?

We are fortunate to have friends, Joe and Tracey, who have lived in Hong Kong for 15 years, and on our second day they showed us a side of Hong Kong I didn’t know existed. When they offered us a choice of shopping or hiking, I quickly chose hiking, not knowing what that might mean in the urban metropolis.

Tracey, Joe and their two children, Amy (12) and Neil (eight), arrived at our hotel in a taxi and directed the driver to take us to Shek O, which I easily located on the map included in our Lonely Planet guidebook. While they have a car and driver, it was easier to take a taxi due to the nonexistent parking at the trailhead.

The trailhead was well marked and we set off on the Dragon’s Back trail, a loop that took us high on a ridge on the southern end of Hong Kong Island, looking down on the same beautiful beaches we had observed from the Peak Tram. We took our time, enjoying the green, open spaces — a welcome change from the humid, bustling city we left behind.

The moderate trail had many steps and was graced with several benches along the way, providing places to pause and catch the cooling breezes. When we arrived back at the trailhead, it was only a matter of moments before we were able to hail two cabs to take us back to town.

Museum and market visits

If you have a third day in Hong Kong, as we did on our way back to the US from Vietnam, you might consider checking out some of the many museums. Tracey had been to them all and was a bit jaded since she’s lived there so long, but one museum, the Museum of Coastal Defence, stood out in her mind as unique, so we took that as a recommendation.

The Museum of Coastal Defence, converted from the Lei Yue Mun Fort, was located on the other end of the harbor from the Western District, where we were staying. Deciding that the tram was too slow, we took the subway, which is very efficient, clean and modern. From the Sheung Wan station to Shau Kei Wan it cost HK$15 (US$1.90) per person and got us within a short walk of the museum.

There were several impressive highlights at the museum, including exhibits that cover distinct periods over the 600-year history of coastal defense, from the Ming period in the 1300s to the present. Many restored relics can be seen from the trail that encircles the museum.

The museum is closed Thursdays and the first two days of the Lunar Year. It is open all other days from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Admission costs HK$10 per adult, with free admission on Wednesdays.

Since our trip was coming to its conclusion, we finally succumbed to the beckoning Stanley Market, previously a fishing village and now transformed into a shopper’s paradise.

We took a cab to the south end of the island and disembarked into a warren of narrow lanes lined with shops where one can find collectibles, curios, silk clothing, shoes, handbags and more. We found some mementos, bargained a little, finished our shopping for friends and family back home and didn’t mind carrying it since this was the last leg of our journey.

Summing up

On this trip, we found a kaleidoscope of sights and sounds that opened our eyes to different sides of Hong Kong. We peeked into ancient traditions, saw remnants of colonial times and drank in the excesses of modern urbanity laced with vast tracts of green space.

We left with the allure of the promise of more and a long list of things we want to experience on our next trip there.

Early in our January ’09 trip to El Salvador, my husband, Paul, and I visited four of the country’s major archaeological sites: Joya de Cerén, San Andrés, Tazumal and Casa Blanca. We saved Cihuatán for last.

Cihuatán is special in many ways. It is El Salvador’s largest archaeological site, spreading over an area of more than one square mile. Excavation is currently in progress and, from everything we heard, Cihuatán is destined to become the country’s premier archaeological site, combining preservation of the past with recreational and tourist facilities.

But what makes Cihuatán historically exceptional is that it rose to prominence when all else was disintegrating. Maya civilization and its great cities collapsed around AD 900 as a result of overpopulation, top-heavy bureaucracy, exhausted resources and warfare — any or all of these; the debate continues.

Post-Classic Cihuatán

Between AD 900 and 1000, Cihuatán was founded in a river valley in what is now north-central El Salvador. No one knows who founded the city, perhaps migrants from Mexico who became the ancestors of the Pipils occupying much of El Salvador when the Spanish arrived in 1524; perhaps local ethnic groups who banded together for mutual protection, perhaps migrants from elsewhere in Central America.

Whoever these people were, they built a city with two ceremonial centers — and possibly minor centers nearby — with pyramids, temples, palaces and ball courts. This period of growth was brief, only 150 to 250 years, until Cihuatán was suddenly extinguished in a cataclysmic fire around AD 1150. No one knows who destroyed the city or why. It was never rebuilt.

Archaeological trail

What remains is impressive. Visitors can follow a trail with 13 “stops” that leads to all the major excavated sites in the Western Ceremonial Center. These include the stone defense wall that once enclosed the Great Plaza and its structures. This alone makes Cihuatán unique, since there are few walled sites in El Salvador.

There are also two ball courts, one partially excavated (the Western Ball Court) and one completely excavated and partially restored (the Northern Ball Court), with an adjoining temazcal, a room for bathing and for therapy for the hard knocks suffered during the games in the ball court. This temazcal is another unique feature at Cihuatán.

From the Northern Ball Court there’s a great view of the Main Pyramid, which can be climbed via a protective staircase that doesn’t damage the structure. From the summit, on which once stood a temple, there’s a panoramic view over the whole complex, including the Eastern Ceremonial Center where archaeologists are currently excavating what is probably an enormous royal palace.

In the Great Plaza on the way back from the Main Pyramid to the entrance is yet another unique feature, the ruins of a circular stone building that may have been a temple to the god of the winds. Circular structures are rare in Mesoamerica. Only four are known in all of El Salvador.

Cihuatán is located 25 miles north of San Salvador, about an hour’s drive. It’s open 9 to 4, Tuesday to Sunday. Admission costs $3. Trail booklets in English cost $1. Allow at least 60 to 90 minutes to see everything.

Colonial Suchitoto

We visited Cihuatán from the wonderful little colonial town of Suchitoto, 15 miles southeast (Suchitoto is 25 miles northeast of San Salvador).

There are three reasons to go to Suchitoto: to stroll its charming cobblestone streets; to eat at La Fonda del Mirador, with its fantastic view over Lake Suchitoto, and to stay at Los Almendros de San Lorenzo (4a Calle Poniente, Suchitoto, El Salvador; phone 503 2335 1200, e-mail plebailly@hotelsalvador.com).

Los Almendros is a 200-year-old hacienda impeccably restored and converted into a small hotel. It was hard to tear ourselves away from its tropical gardens and gurgling fountains, not to mention our suite with its own lion-headed wall fountain that we could turn on and off with the flick of a switch.

Room rates start at $100 per night, including breakfast; the Lion Suite cost us $142. Staying there at least one night is good; two nights is better, and three, as we did, is best.

San Salvador sights

Although we concentrated on visiting archaeological sites on this trip, we found plenty to do in San Salvador during our nine days there.

First and foremost was the David Guzmán National Museum of Anthropology with its mix of folk art and archaeological artifacts, including huge boulders with incised petroglyphs and an altar from Quelepa in eastern El Salvador, the only one of the country’s six major archaeological sites we didn’t get to visit.

There are three other don’t-miss museums: the fascinating Museum of Popular Art, displaying tiny clay figurines called sorpresas; the Museum of Modern Art, highlighting Salvadoran artists (although there are temporary exhibitions of foreign artists as well (we saw a superb Miró exhibit on our visit), and the Fernando Llort Museum, devoted to the works of this contemporary artist who paints and does ceramics in bright, vibrant colors.

San Salvador’s downtown area is chaotic and noisy, but this is where the Cathedral is located with the tomb of Archbishop Oscar Romero, assassinated in 1980, and the very unusual church (picture an airplane hangar or an old factory) of El Rosario on Parque Libertad with its winged statue of Liberty. The stained glass inside is simple and stunning.

Prowling the malls

We also did something which for us is exotic: went to three shopping malls in nine days. Exotic for us because we haven’t been to three malls in nine years at home in New York.

Many of San Salvador’s malls are upscale, glittery and air-conditioned, with some good handicraft shops and great cafés in which to sample Salvadoran coffee. If you don’t “do” malls at home, try a few in San Salvador. We chose upscale Gran Via, more down-to-earth MultiPlaza and overwhelming Metrocentro, supposedly the largest mall in Central America.

Another “do not miss” is the Ruta de las Flores, a mountain road that starts at Sonsonate west of San Salvador and winds its way 24 miles through the picturesque villages of Izalco, Nahuizalco, Juayua, Apa­neca and Ataco. There are coffee plantations and charming places to dine along the route. It’s a great day excursion from San Salvador.

If you go. . .

We flew to San Salvador from New York nonstop on TACA (800/535-8780), a flight of about five hours — very comfortable business class.

For most of our 12-day stay in El Salvador, we based ourselves in San Salvador at the Hilton Princess Hotel (phone 011 503 268 4545 or, in the US, 800/445-8667), which is in a good location at Avenida las Magnolias and Boulevard del Hipodromo. There were lots of restaurants nearby, including Shaw’s, a café/sweet shop/bookstore right next door to the hotel.

Nightly room rates at the Hilton start at $79, not including the 18% tax. Our Executive Suite with bedroom, separate living room, two bathrooms and use of the Executive Lounge with all its amenities cost us $149 plus 18% tax.

by Beth Habian, ITN

I must admit that, despite my profession, I’m a chicken when it comes to traveling to an unfamiliar place on my own. While many thrive on the excitement and challenge of tackling a foreign country independently, I like the security of traveling with someone who knows the destination and the language.

I don’t, however, enjoy being a “tourist.” The thought of walking through narrow streets following a guide holding a brightly colored plastic flower on a stick makes me cringe. For me, small-group travel is the way to go.

This year I was invited to join six other travelers on a 12-day May tour of France’s Dordogne region. The tour was led by George Nevin, founder of Intimate France, who has been guiding travelers through France for more than 15 years.

George’s quick sense of humor, laid-back style and proficient organizational skills helped make this a journey I will long remember. The green, rolling hills, flower-laden villages and elegant châteaux of this southwest section of the country didn’t hurt, either!

Getting there

My round-trip Northwest/KLM flight from Eugene, Oregon, to Bordeaux was booked several months in advance of my departure, but my near-perfect schedule was changed by the airline a few weeks after booking, resulting in a 7½-hour layover in Amsterdam.

Knowing I’d be too tired to stroll around the city for hours before making my connection, I decided to book a day room at Hotel Mercure Schiphol Terminal (phone +31206041339, fax +31206530438, www.accorhotels.com), located inside the airport just a short walk from my arrival gate.

Since I was going to have to stay awake to meet my group for dinner after arriving in Bordeaux, being able to get some sleep and freshen up with a shower made my small but clean room worth the €85 ($118), to me.

Be aware that the hotel is quite a distance from the departure gates and you must clear Passport Control on the way to your connecting flight, so give yourself a good half hour to get to your gate.

The Dordogne

Located in the Aquitaine region, the département of the Dordogne is named for the river that runs through it, though it is more often referred to by locals (and many guidebooks) as the Périgord, which this general area was once known as.

This small section of the country contains nine of the 151 Most Beautiful Villages of France, as designated by the association Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. Our itinerary included visits to five, including St. Jean de Cole, an incredibly picturesque village that, on the day of our visit, was festooned with vibrant floral garlands in preparation for their annual flower fair, Les Floralies.

Also featured on the itinerary, and what I found particularly appealing about this tour, was the chance to see the original prehistoric cave paintings at Font de Gaume and the replica cave art at Lascaux. I hadn’t expected much from the reconstructed cave, but, upon entering, I was impressed at the number and enormous sizes of the animals depicted there, especially after our excellent local guide, who had been inside the original cave on numerous occasions, told us that the real paintings were even brighter than the vivid reproductions.

While the Dordogne is overflowing with quaint villages and imposing châteaux, it seemed George had handpicked the absolute best spots, focusing his itinerary to expose us to a variety of sights without overwhelming us each day with long drives or creating a “Not another castle!” uproar.

Although, technically, I was working, George’s hard work behind the scenes allowed me to fully enjoy being “on vacation;” I just showed up each morning knowing that whatever unfolded would be a new, enchanting experience.

I will never forget such magical moments as sitting at an outdoor table amongst the remains of a ruined cloister in St. Émilion sipping sparkling wine and chatting with my newfound friends; enjoying a hilltop picnic featuring the delicious fare contributed by each group member, the assigned ingredients picked up that morning at the outdoor market in Sarlat; touring the rooms of Le Château des Milandes, the former home of jazz singer Josephine Baker, while recordings of her lilting voice floated through the air; cruising in the sunshine down the Dordogne in a replica of an 18th-century garbares, a traditional river craft of the area, to view the cliffside village of La Roque Gageac from the water, and standing at the spot, now little more than a rock overhang, where, in 1868, five Cro-Magnon skeletons were discovered.

The food

Also memorable on this trip was, of course, the food. We were in France, after all. With a few exceptions, each day of the tour featured one included group meal (besides the daily breakfast at each hotel), and the restaurants chosen all were wonderful. Each offered ample choice, and George was always at the ready to translate the menu.

Even for meals that were not on the itinerary, he would make restaurant suggestions and, early on, even made reservations for those interested in joining him for lunch or dinner. This made things much easier for travelers unfamiliar with French.

George would cover the total bill for the meal and would keep track of each person’s order, writing it down in his little book. At the end of the tour, a total for all such charges was presented to each guest, who could either pay before leaving for home or be billed upon arriving back in the US. I thought this was a very efficient system.

While the restaurants I enjoyed number too many to mention, there was one included meal that stood head and shoulders above the others. Our lunch at the Michelin-starred Le Moulin du Roc in Champagnac de Bélair was a featured item on our itinerary — so much so that when George discovered they would not be opening for the season as early as scheduled, he rearranged our entire program to keep this special experience on our agenda.

This restaurant/hotel, converted from a 17th-century mill house, was absolutely charming, situated along the Drônne River and surrounded by lovely gardens. Despite its notable reputation, it still felt comfortable and inviting, not stuffy or intimidating. (This was true of all of the restaurants at which we ate.)

Our lovely hostess, Maryse Gardillou, wife of chef Alain, presented us with a sweet little menu printed especially for our group, her tinkling laughter announcing her presence in the dining room.

Every bite of the 4-course lunch was an experience, from the creamy potage perfectly spiced with a hint of cardamom to the tangy, sweet-tart flavor of the passion fruit sorbet. Every element on every plate was paid careful attention, even the tiny caramelized tomato that accompanied my grilled cod fillet, which released an explosion of flavor when I bit into it. It was a perfect meal.

The accommodations

Also well chosen were the hotels on this trip. With only four hotels used for our entire 12-night stay, it was nice to be able to settle in and enjoy each area without having to pack and unpack every other day.

In Bordeaux, on our first and last nights of the tour, we stayed at the Novotel Bordeaux Aeroport, a modern hotel just minutes from the airport. Since Bordeaux was merely the starting and ending point of our tour, it was preferable to stay on the outskirts of the traffic-filled city, especially for those of us with early-morning departures.

In St. Émilion, the 3-star Hôtel Palais Cardinal was well located, allowing guests to walk to the center of this charming medieval town within minutes. The rooms here differed from one to the next. Mine was quite small, with a slanted ceiling above the shower, but, for me (only five feet tall), it was fine. George did check with each group member to make sure their accommodations were acceptable.

In the delightful town of Brantôme, I really enjoyed my room with its balcony doors that opened onto a view of the Drônne below. Some of the rooms at the 3-star Hôtel Chabrol have been wonderfully updated and others, like mine — still sporting a WC and bathroom with a ’70s color scheme — are on the list to be done. Still, the hotel is perfectly located (although pretty much everything is within walking distance in this small town) and its restaurant was fabulous.

Finally, we spent six nights in the heart of Sarlat at the Villa des Consuls, which offers both apartments and rooms. This was my favorite accommodation, perhaps because we stayed here for a good portion of the tour and it began to feel like home.

My comfortable room, equipped with a fridge and microwave, was airy and bright. There was also a laundry room with several washers and dryers for guests to use (costing €.50 for the detergent but otherwise free of charge) — perfect after a week of touring.

David, the owner, had some schooling in California, so his English was great, and he was most accommodating, offering help and suggestions whenever asked.

The people

In fact, everywhere we went in the Dordogne, the local people were friendly and enthusiastic. In St. Émilion, Monsieur Querre, proprietor of an interesting small ceramics museum there, spoke with such passion about his collection, his people and his country that his enthusiasm was infectious. I could have listened to him all day.

He also gave us a superb suggestion on where to have lunch, and the food at L’Huitrier-Pie (Il Rue de la porte Bouqueyre; phone 05 57 24 69 71) lived up to his fervent recommendation. (The “formula” menu, including two courses and a glass of wine, cost €18, or $25.)

Our guide for the tour of the Château Lynch-Bages winery, Kirsten, had a spectacular sense of humor and turned what could have been a quite dry explanation of the wine-making process into a truly enjoyable afternoon outing.

My only frustrating experience with the locals was trying to buy bread at the hugely crowded outdoor market in Sarlat. You really have to speak up to be noticed or you will be passed by for the regular customers (although, in fairness, they are the ones who will be coming back the next week). In contrast, shopping for a canelé pan in Brantôme’s tiny market was a pleasure.

Summing up

I had a fabulous time and would highly recommend a visit to the area, especially for lovers of wine and foie gras, which was featured on almost every menu.

Note: if you intend to bring home some of the foie gras for which the region is known, be sure to pack it in your checked luggage. I made the mistake of putting it in my carry-on bag, never once thinking it would be classified as “a liquid.” In the bin it went….

We enjoyed lovely weather, with only one day of rain at the end of the tour, and temperatures were mild. There is quite a bit of walking involved on this tour, so you should be in reasonably good shape if you want to take advantage of all of the scheduled activities.

I can wholeheartedly recommend a tour with Intimate France (Oakland, CA; 800/676-1247, www.IntimateFrance.com), and those who know me know I wouldn’t be so enthusiastic if I weren’t truly impressed. Group sizes are always small (never more than 20 people), and the itineraries are well planned and, if my experience is the norm, flawlessly executed.

The company offers only four escorted tours a year, including destinations in not only France but Italy (and, on occasion, Croatia). Tours change yearly to keep things new and exciting for Intimate France’s many repeat travelers, but the Dordogne tour will be offered again in 2010 (Sept. 26-Oct. 8), with some variation in accommodations. Custom tours can be arranged on request.

The land-only cost for next year’s tour is $3,795 per person, based on double occupancy; the single supplement is $450. With the exception of some meals and drinks, international airfare and, of course, personal expenditures, everything is included in the tour price.

Beth Habian was the guest of Intimate France.

There were three possibilities: I was waiting at the wrong harbor, had drastically misunderstood the ferry’s schedule or was the sole person bound for Lopud. The bench at the ferry departure dock was mine alone, with no other passengers in sight.

Ahh, a ferry, a small-sized member of the fleet that ties the islands and mainland of Croatia together, rounded the bend. Right on time, according to the schedule to Lopud.

With that, passengers streamed out of nowhere, shoving, elbowing to be first in line, jostling luggage. Had all of sweltering, swarming Dubrovnik suddenly decided that it was too hot, too crowded with tourists this August day to stay in town?

With a toot of the horn, off we went with every inch of space inside and out occupied with standers and sitters. The headline ran through my head: “Local Ferry Overloaded with Passengers Capsizes in Adriatic.”

Escape from the heritage, walled city — a place that in other seasons is a high point of any visit to Croatia — was but one reason I’d chosen to head for Lopud, the middle island and second largest of the Elafiti Archipelago, located nine kilometers offshore.

The other reason was a garden established in the late 1800s — a garden so important that its creation influenced Dubrovnik’s garden tradition; a garden gone neglected through two World Wars and communist rule; a garden newly appreciated and, with volunteer help and guidance from Dubrovnik’s Office for Historical Gardens, emerging from decades of botanical tangle.

Attracted to Lopud

A stop en route at the island of Kolocep brought relief to the overloaded vessel. Ahead lay the Bay of Lopud with its picture-postcard waterfront lined with villas and sidewalk cafés against steep hills.

Now a sleepy, idyllic getaway for Dubrovniks and tourists, it is hard to believe that Lopud was once the regional headquarters of the Republic of Dubrovnik and considered a superb example of 15th- and 16th-century urban planning.

According to a 16th-century historian, the Dominican Serafino Razzi, author of the first printed history of Dubrovnik, Lopud had its own fleet of some 80 ships and its own shipyard, 30 churches, several monasteries and a vast number of sea captain- and aristocracy-owned summer villas. A population of some 4,000 lived on the island’s 2-by-5-kilometer expanse of hills and valleys.

Today but 200 or so call Lopud home. The island comes to life in spring, with the first arrival of vacationers and day-trippers there to fish and swim in the Adriatic’s crystal-clear waters or simply claim a table on the promenade and watch the passersby. With the first rustlings of fall, Lopud is all but closed down.

It is only when one learns of low-key, pedestrian-only Lopud’s important past that the existence of the garden makes sense.

Garden at La Villa

Gjorgjic-Mayneri Park, as the garden is known, was created next to the 1494-built summer villa of the noble Dubrovnik family Gjorgjic by Count Felice Mayneri, a Venetian who’d married into the aristocratic clan.

The villa is of modest size, with Mayneri having made the decision not to invest heavily in a sprawling, luxurious home but instead surround it with gardens in which, as Mayneri declared, “spirits could soar.”

Built on a rise directly on the bayside promenade, the 5-acre garden was constructed on two levels — the lower level situated directly behind the villa, the upper level to one side.

Although its purpose was pleasure and relaxation, it was meticulously planned and architecturally designed. Nothing was left to chance. Waterfalls were placed to tumble into little streams; numerous stone platforms were outfitted with benches placed facing the sea. Pathways echoed the curve of the bay, making their way through archways embedded with broken shells.

Eucalyptus, cedar, palms and oleander joined the olive trees from the orchard that had originally inhabited the site. Exotic specimens were prized and planted, as was the fashion of the time, gathered the world over. Many arrived as gifts from those invited to the villa.

The villa is now a boutique hotel, La Villa, renovated in the 1980s and newly appointed in 2004. The lower level of the garden has been walled off to become the hotel’s private space. There, I found that all manner of herbs and citrus trees keep company with an ancient, enormous magnolia.

Stone lions guard a stone stairway to La Villa’s left. Paths lead under towering trees into the garden proper. Despite the ongoing clearing-out of the overgrown, it takes a squint of the eyes to appreciate what the garden once was. Nevertheless, it is a delightful place to wander, deliciously cool under the midday sun.

Paths and rock-edged planting areas lead to more paths and planting areas with weatherworn pieces of sculpture along the way. Dogs are walked, joggers jog, volunteers water and weed. So fascinating did I find the garden that I returned to it time after time in my three days spent on the island.

And then it was time to leave. Again I was alone on the pier, wondering if I’d gotten the return schedule wrong. But no, just as the ferry entered the bay, suddenly all the day-trippers and returning vacationers were there jostling for position in line.

Visiting Croatia’s Lopud island

During the season, four ferries a day service Lopud from Dubrovnik’s port of Gruz. Tickets, at approximately $10 each way, can be purchased at the Jadrolinija ferry office located at the port.

With no room available at La Villa (Obela Iva Kuljevana 33, 20222, Lopud 49, Croatia; phone +385 91 322 0126 or e-mail contact@lavilla.com.hr), where season rates begin at about $90 double, two of us stayed at Villa Birimisa (Obela IVA Kuljevana, Lopud 49, Croatia; phone +385 20 311 561, fax 562, e-mail info@villabirimisa.com or visit www.villabirimisa.com), farther along the promenade. Villa Birimisa has six apartments, with rates beginning at about $100, which is about what we paid in August ’08.

Other accommodations can be found on the Lopud website, www.lopud.eu, or by e-mailing info@lopud.eu. In high season, a varying minimum number of days are generally required.

Yvonne Horn can be reached at www.travelwiththegardener.com.