Reviewers’ Corner

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reviewers corner

Here are a few of the latest travel-book reviews written by ITN readers.

“Historic Paris Walks,” edited by Leo Hollis (2006, Cadogan Guides/Globe Pequot Press. ISBN 1860113451 — 221 pp., $14.95 paperback).

The book aims to portray the “thrill of discovery,” revealing Paris’ history in a series of layers by “hitting the pavement.” The editor stresses that Paris is made for walking, and the proposed journeys span the city and ages, concurrently showcasing history.

There are 10 walks, ranging from 1.5 to 6.8 miles, each without stated time allotments, either for routes or sights visited. Maps outline each walk, with start, finish, most streets, points of interest and corresponding subway stops marked. All itineraries are within the city, the one exception the exploration through the gardens of Versailles, 12 miles west of Paris.

No general subway map for Paris or transport basics for reaching Versailles is provided; readers would need supplementary information for both.

The chapters follow general themes, including tracing the city’s origins and understanding particular periods or areas later identified by artists who lived there. One enjoyable circuit follows the haunts of American writers, describing where Faulkner, Hemingway and others lived and wrote.

Many itineraries focus on the heart of Paris: the Seine’s Left and Right banks. In fact, not only do these walks intersect, they duplicate portions of each other. Central city routes overlap, passing the same areas or monuments repeatedly, such as the Boulevard St-Germain, the Church of Saint-Sulpice, the Tuileries Gardens and the Louvre Museum. This may be due to the guide’s various contributors. However, there is no overview map or delineation along individual routes to show where walks meet or how any could be combined.

The traverse through Montmartre unfortunately forces walkers to ascend multiple staircases, totaling at least 366 steps. The area is admittedly on a hill overlooking the city, but this is one example where the guide fails. Nearly four miles of wandering might be better done in reverse, although this too could be frustrating as several streets and sights are not listed on the accompanying map.

The book succeeds in providing an array of historical facts, detailing how neighborhoods, streets or buildings became what they are today: vestiges of ancient design and decisions.

Even repeat travelers might learn something unlikely to be found in more standard guides. There are many such snippets: Pont Neuf is the oldest bridge spanning the Seine; some Right Bank churches were constructed in faubourgs, meaning places originally “outside the walls”; the famed Louvre was destroyed in the 16th century; restoration of Versailles’ gardens could last until 2012, and the chic shopping street of rue Saint-Honoré was an 18th-century way to the guillotine.

On the whole, however, I found the more elaborate explanations behind why a certain king did what to be dry and tedious. The lengthy historical narrative detracted from enjoying several walks. This guide is best suited to veteran travelers devoted to French history who have ample opportunity to stroll without concern to sightseeing timetables.

— DIANE POWELL FERGUSON, Scottsdale, AZ

“Insight City Guide: Moscow,” edited by Brian Bell (2006, Langenscheidt Publishers. ISBN 9789812582447 — 257 pp., $16.95 paperback).

For even a seasoned traveler, reading this unique guide can be fun. That’s because it is well designed, with literally hundreds of intriguing photographs which make it easy to choose the sights you want to visit.

As a visitor to Moscow, I consider this guide more useful than others I have read. I wished I had had a guide like this, on my visit to Moscow in October 2000, to lead me through that city where I could not even read street signs.

Embellished with hundreds of color photos, this guide is a printed invitation to tour this historical vault of the tsarist empire and communist regime. Moving around the city is easier and quicker using the instructions for the ancient metro system, which at times is 300 feet below the surface. Escalators abound in each station.

The writer warns that to understand Moscow today you “need to know something of its past.” You will find countless historical references which will add immense value to your visit.

The section on “Parks and Palaces” will whet your appetite for visiting the six most impressive of these, with detailed photographs which reveal the remains of 70 years of communism and the Soviet Union.

One can’t visit Russia without being influenced by its tragic history. The “Decisive Dates” pages list 70 of the most memorable points in Moscow’s history.

Even after seeing the city in person, I was impressed with the accuracy of the 10 pages describing the majestic old buildings of Russia’s architecture. The writer describes the 12th-century walled fortress called the Kremlin as “Moscow in a nutshell”; its name means “citadel,” and it was once the symbol of Moscow’s religious heritage and the seat of political power. Here, the writer describes everything within the walls: Red Square, the massive 3-level GUM department store, St. Basil’s Cathedral and Lenin’s tomb as well as museums, palaces, grand old churches and federation buildings.

You will learn that the city’s hundreds of ornate Orthodox churches were converted into fascinating museums or elaborate government buildings or for other uses.

The “Classic Art” portion will lead you through 30 pages of facts and photos to enrich your appreciation of the city.

If I could list one criticism, it would be that I was challenged to spend too much time browsing through colorful pages to absorb the detail in order to better plan my return visit to this city. You will find taking this guide with you a requirement.

When you browse through this readable book, you will realize its value as a vivid description of Russia’s capital city and you will want to pack your luggage and reach for a zip-lock bag.

— CARROLL CHANDLER, Dallas TX

“The Australian Bed & Breakfast Guide” by Elizabeth James (2005, Pelican. ISBN 1589802934 — 336 pp., $19.95 paperback).

The listings in this book were written by the owners, not by the author of the book. However, there are symbols by most listings indicating that they have been inspected by the following organizations: AAA Tourism (with star ratings), the Australian Tourism Association and B&B Inspected.

The listings are nicely arranged by states and territories, with easy-to-use tabs for each. There is a very nice color picture of each B&B listed.

The book measures 5¾”x8½” and weighs slightly less than one pound, making it easy to carry.

— VAUGHAN PARKER, Santa Barbara, CA

Devils on the Deep Blue Sea: The Dreams, Schemes and Showdowns That Built America’s Cruise-Ship Empires” by Kristoffer A. Garin (2004, Viking Press. ISBN 0670034185 — 384 pp., $24.95).

This book is disorganized and sometimes boring but nevertheless entertaining and informative. An exposé of the cruise business, it deals with a history of the cruise industry and also goes into great detail about the business machinations and internal workings of the two largest cruise lines: Carnival and Royal Caribbean. This would be good material in an MBA program, but it detracts somewhat from the main story.

With ships sailing under flags of convenience, the cruise line industry is a world unto itself — free from any serious government regulation. Reading, we learn how cruise lines got there and how they exploit their unfettered status.

The opening chapter describes the magnitude and profitability of these modern buccaneers. Carrying over 12 million passengers a year, gross revenue is well in excess of $10 billion per year ($13 billion in 2003). Although 83% of the world’s cruise passengers originate in the United States, not one cent is paid in federal income tax by any cruise lines registered outside of the U.S., that is, virtually all of them. Profits are such that if WalMart had the same rate of return, annual profits would exceed $65 billion.

We also are immediately provided a description of the organized chaos of “Turnaround day” for Royal Caribbean’s Voyager of the Seas. This details the onloading and offloading of almost 8,000 passengers and 1,200 tons of luggage while restocking for the afternoon departure. The tonnage of edibles and the logistics of precise storage themselves are fascinating.

The immigration ships of the late 1800s, prohibition “booze cruises” and the glamorous transatlantic ocean liners were part of the speckled history of today’s cruise industry. The best parts, though, relate to the mishaps and antics of the raffish pioneers. Once, slot machines and cash registers had to be emptied to buy fuel to get back to Miami. Early on, one owner had farewell confetti swept up and repackaged for resale.

The one event that really made the industry was the TV show “The Love Boat.” The show was a free primetime commercial. Ten years after its debut, the number of cruise passengers sailing from North America had more than tripled.

A significant portion of the book is spent on the history of Carnival and Royal Caribbean and the personalities that made them. When a detailed examination of the tactics and strategies employed in various mergers and takeover fights is thrown in, it gives the reader more information than he needs or wants to know.

The industry’s dirty laundry also is examined. Hiring practices, wages, passengers’ medical treatment, etc., are examined in some detail. The boast of being a small united nations is shown to be a tactic to avoid a concentration of one nationality which could organize ship’s personnel.

The list continues with the author alleging blatant disregard for the environment, the pressuring of Caribbean countries, onboard bribery and a strict employee caste system. Tiny cabins and abbreviated port stays are shown to be strategies to keep passengers circulating on board to gamble and spend. In combination, all these are an eye-opener on an industry that answers to no one.

In spite of its faults, this book is a good read and recommended to anyone who has been or will be a passenger.

GEORGE FINCKENOR, Mt. Arlington, NJ

From the June 2007 issue.