Informing the international traveler since 1976.
March 2007 issue.
Articles are displayed in the order they appear in the magazine.
Boarding Pass
Dear Globetrotter: Welcome to the 373rd issue of your monthly overseas travel magazine. It has been 31 years since ITN came out with its first issue in March 1976. At that time, no other travel publication would print negative comments about any aspect of travel out of fear of offending advertisers. Armond Noble, ITN’s publisher, says that [...]Travel Tidbits
Although we found the weather in May very unpleasant, it did not deter us from enjoying our trip to Denmark. Daytime temperatures were 50°-55°F and it was windy, with rain showers, some of them heavy. Our daily attire consisted of heavy sweaters or sweatshirts with raincoats. Locals told us that April weather is very unpredictable: [...]Return to Kathmandu … a Nepalese journey continues
by Steven Cole, Lowell, MI (Second of two parts, jump to part 1) Flying into Kathmandu from Bangkok at the beginning of my trip three weeks earlier, I had my first glimpse of the mighty Himalayas and the Everest region from the seat of a Thai Airways 747. I’d been told to request a seat on [...]Getting a hotel’s best rate
In the following, I haven’t identified the hotel or hotel chain because it’s not my purpose to single them out for criticism (the hotel staff was very accommodating). In May ’06, I needed to reserve a hotel room in Buenos Aires for mid-December. I chose a hotel that is part of an international chain, then located [...]ATMs in Tokyo
I was very impressed with Susan Benton’s article “Traveling Solo in Tokyo” (Jan. ’07, pg. 46). Her tips and anecdotes were well-geared toward first-time visitors to Tokyo. In particular, I liked her suggestion of exploring Kichijoji, since suburbs like this often provide a view of the real Japan. Kichijoji is also the site of Inokashira Park, [...]Re eating on trains in Japan
My wife, Rita, and I returned on Nov. 21, 2006, from a tour of Japan with Overseas Adventure Travel (625 Mount Auburn St., Ste. 200 North, Cambridge, MA 02138; 800/493-6824, www.oattravel.com), the best group tour we have ever taken. The land portion was $5,458 for two for 13 days. We bought only the land tour because [...]Theater + shopping in Osaka
Namba is the heart of the shopping and entertainment area in Osaka, Japan. On a trip in September ’05, my husband, Don, and I took the Chuo Line subway from Osaka to Honmachi, then boarded the train on the Yotubashi line (blue color code). Once we emerged in Namba, we had no problem locating the [...]Quito snacks
My wife, Barbara, and I visited Quito, Ecuador, in January ’06. The places to eat are endless and we found most quite adequate. You can get an almuerzo (lunch) of the day (fixed menu) for $1.50. It will include a nice soup and a main dish of some kind of meat plus rice and maybe a [...]Lhasa dining oasis
Having traveled to Lhasa, Tibet, Oct. 10-17, 2006, I can recommend very highly the Lhasa Namaste Restaurant (Yutoklu No 30; phone 0891-6324669 or e-mail jampa22@hotmail.com). It’s on the second floor, near the theater hall and at the opposite end of Jokhang Temple within the Barkhor market. The owner is the charming, young Mr. Jampa. The staff [...]Funniest Thing for March
Tell ITN about the funniest thing that ever happened to you while traveling in a foreign country. There are no restrictions on length. (ITN prints no info on destinations in the U.S., Canada, Mexico or the Caribbean.) The ITN staff will choose each month’s winner, who will receive a free one-year subscription to ITN. Entries [...]Israel — Why visit? Where to go? Is it safe?
by Noel Canfield including text and photos from Roger Canfield, Contributing Editors Visiting Israel was a childhood dream of mine, one inspired by films such as “Exodus” and “Ben Hur” and my reading the Bible and James Michener’s “The Source.” So I was thrilled to be invited aboard El Al’s inaugural nonstop flight from Los Angeles [...]Inconveniences, annoyances on flight
My wife and I in May ’06 flew Virgin Atlantic out of Orlando, Florida, to London (Gatwick) with a connection to Malta. The outward trip was marred by only two problems: the check-in line was extremely long, as there were three flights checking in at the same time, and the seats aboard the planes were [...]The ‘real’ Orient Express
The so-called Orient Express leaves Paris every evening at 5:16 p.m. and arrives in Vienna at 8:30 the next morning. We traveled on this train on May 11, 2006, and returned on May 20 (only because we had nonrefundable tickets). I booked the trip at RailPass Express, now called Railpass.com (48 Glen Ave., Newton Centre, MA [...]Morocco arrangements
My wife, Sandy, and I took a 16-day trip to Morocco, Aug. 29-Sept. 15, 2006, visiting via train the Imperial Cities of Fes, Meknes, Rabat, Casablanca and Marrakech. We traveled with a private driver/guide for four days from Marrakech to Fes. We booked our arrangements through the Internet and, excluding airfare, our total cost was [...]Indonesia & Cambodia with Asia Connect
My wife and I took a 3-week vacation in Indonesia and Cambodia, Jan. 11-Feb. 2, ’06. At a total price of $8,085 out of Birmingham, Alabama, all arrangements were made through Asia Connect Tours (10 Morning Watch Rd., Wayne, NJ 07470; 800/803-3656, www.asia connect tours.com). The airlines used (Cathay Pacific, Singapore Airlines, Silk Air and Garuda [...]For a Tuscany day trip
While on a 2-week independent trip to Italy in June ’06, my two girlfriends and I found a wonderful company providing day trips into the Tuscan countryside outside of Florence: Doors To Italy (27500 Pinyon St., Murrieta, CA 92562; 951/704-5729, e-mail doors2italy@verizon.net). We were picked up in the morning by Roberto at our lodging in the [...]Bhutan’s fall festivals
Approximately 2,500 visitors visited the kingdom of Bhutan for the late September/early October festivals in 2006 — a record-high attendance. Despite full flights and hotels at capacity, the festival season was one of the most enjoyable I’ve ever experienced. Everyone was on their “best behavior,” following the new rules governing demeanor and dress for the [...]Unspunnen in Switzerland
My wife, Mary Ellen, and I were in Switzerland for 10 days in September ’06. We stayed in Merligen, which is on Lake Thun and near Interlaken. We had been in this area before and basically were interested in hiking in the beautiful mountains of the area, which was marvelous. The highlight of the trip was [...]Courteous in France
We took a 2-week tour of France, Oct. 7-20, 2006, with Trafalgar Tours (Long Island City, NY; 866/544-4434 or www. trafalgartours.com). The flights both ways from Philadephia were with Air France. The aircraft were very clean, the crew was courteous and friendly, and the food was the best I’ve ever had in some 30 years of [...]Penguins in Africa
Why go to Boulders Beach, south of Cape Town, South Africa? To see the African penguins, of course. Formerly called jackass penguins (for their donkey-like braying), they are native to South Africa, and this beach is one of their three breeding grounds. After a not-so-short walk from the parking lot, we were able to walk down [...]Down in front!
I am curious to find out if any other travelers feel the same way that I do regarding this subject. Since when have the hosts of travelogues aired on television gotten it into their heads that we are more interested in them and their personalities than the places they are presenting to us? I thought that the [...]Little known but fine places
Here are some small towns that stand out in my mind for their beauty or other unique characteristics. Jaisalmer, India, located in the far west, is one of this country’s most magical cities. Wandering the streets — seeing women repairing the walls of the fort, and the only transport, animals — one can believe it’s a [...]Impressed with a 6-country tour of East Africa
by Claus Hirsch, New York, NY In late March ’06 I embarked on my first trip to Africa. It was the start of a 3½-week vacation like no other I had ever taken. Dispelling misconceptions Many impressions are embedded in my mind after visiting six countries in East Africa. Three of those visits, admittedly, were very brief, but [...]Most beautiful or unusual place of worship
In our September ’06 issue we printed several readers’ selections of special places of worship. Here are a few more. If you have another to share, write to Standout Place of Worship, c/o ITN, 2120 28th St., Sacramento, CA 95818, or e-mail editor@intltravelnews.com (please include the address at which you receive ITN). Of the hundreds of [...]Le Lot in France
We read the recommendation for Le Lot (46320 Issepts, FRANCE; phone 011 33 [0] 5 65 40 17 61 or e-mail catherineissepts@wanadoo.fr) (April ’06, pg. 55). We stayed there during our trip to southern France in May ’06 and it was by far our favorite chambre d’hôte of the trip. Catherine has two rooms. Our spacious [...]Hotel Beránek in the Czech Republic
The Hotel Beránek (Belehradská 110, 120 00 Praha 2, CZECH REPUBLIC; phone +420 221 59 59 59, fax 61 or visit www.hotelberanek.com) was my accommodation for a conference I attended in August-September ’06, and I was so pleased with it that I want to recommend it to ITN readers. Great for a room within a short [...]Bicheno’s Ocean View Retreat in Tasmania
Bicheno’s Ocean View Retreat (18067 Tasman Highway, Bicheno, Tasmania 7215, AUSTRALIA; phone [61] 3 6375 1481, fax 1554, e-mail dgardam@tassie.net.au or visit www.bichenooceanviewretreat.com) sits on a hill overlooking a long sweep of coastline. This new, clean and modern B&B is run by Debbie and Jock Gard, a very nice and helpful couple. Separate, private suites or [...]Hotels in the Northern Territory
From a 2-week March ’06 trip to AUSTRALIA, here are some of the hotels I stayed at in the Northern Territory. (Also see Sept. ’06, pg. 48 & Jan. ’07, pg. 56.) • Back in Alice Springs, I had reservations at the Best Western Elkira Motel (65 Bath St., Alice Springs, N.T. 0870, Australia; phone [08] [...]Visiting the Black Madonna of Montserrat
by Chloe Ryan Winston, Redding, CA Whether you believe or are just along for the ride, a Whether you believe or are just along for the ride, a visit to Montserrat, sheltering the Black Madonna of Spain, is worth the trip. Nearly three million people a year agree. The details But never on a Sunday, if you can [...]Dealing with glitches in London
Crowds everywhere. Queues everywhere. And glitches galore. Has London always been like this? Has travel always been like this? My husband, Jim, and I have taken more than a dozen trips to London, the latest one Sept. 19-Oct. 3, 2006. Our nonstop flight on British Air from Phoenix to Heathrow was completely full (350 passengers) and, [...]Australia on a self-drive itinerary
Normally, my wife, Patricia, and I do our own travel planning, relying heavily on the Internet and reading ITN. But a trip to an entire continent was something different, so we looked for ads in ITN for customized itineraries in Australia, reviewed various websites and selected Australia Travel Planning (4428 E. Willow Ave., Phoenix, AZ [...]Guide for Spain and Brazil
We took a trip to Brazil with Elderhostel (Boston, MA; 877/426-8056, www.elderhostel.org), Sept. 30-Oct. 20, 2006. It was a great trip with fantastic sites, excellent and delicious food, good hotels and terrific local guides. The cost was $5,262, land only, and $6,199 including airfare from New York (JFK). Best of all was our tour leader, Alex [...]Guide in Yalta
On a September ’06 cruise, four of us went ashore at Yalta, Ukraine, and met Sergey Tsakapora (e-mail sergo2@yalta.crimea.ua), who leads guided tours in and around this historic city. Fluent in English, Mr. Tsakapora teaches history and is a lecturer at Kiev International University. We found him to be courteous, very well informed, and efficient in [...]RMS St. Helena
I have individually thanked the readers who answered my request in the November ’06 ITN for information on the RMS St. Helena, a “mail packet” which sails from London to South Africa via the island of St. Helena, and now for all ITN readers I offer the address of the current booking agent for the [...]Pepto-Bismol seems to help
I’d like to second the recommendation made by Dina Fulmer in the letter titled “Fending Off Diarrhea” (Aug. ’06, pg. 85). When I was preparing for a trip to Guatemala in 1998, the group leader suggested Pepto-Bismol tablets (which don’t turn your tongue black; the chewables do that!) to prevent stomach disorders. I’ve taken them [...]Lighten the load
As a seasoned traveler, I find traveling with dirty clothes very annoying. Now when I travel, I go through my closets and chest of drawers and pack only items that I plan to leave behind. All of us have clothing that is a bit too tight or too loose, slightly dated, maybe a bit worn or [...]Cruising World » How to save on your next cruise
by Lew Toulmin Today I’ll try to save you some money on your next cruise. I’ll talk about sources of information on cruises, who to buy from, where to go, and timing your cruise and purchase. Sources of information and discounts You are about to buy a big-ticket item, so it pays to do some research. A very [...]Ask Steve » Airline seats, UK car rentals, and lugging
Q:Dear Steve, I’m a large lady, and on a recent domestic flight a gate agent took me aside and requested that I buy a second seat for myself. Fortunately, both the flight and my credit card had room on it, so I was able to do this, but I wondered, ‘What if I were traveling [...]Travel & Health » Traveler’s diarrhea: avoiding the runs
(First of two parts) Traveler’s diarrhea is nobody’s favorite topic — until they have it. There is solid data showing a fair chance of having your digestive system act up when you travel. This may range from mild discomfort to severe illness impacting your journey — and even prematurely terminating the trip. This could include belly aches, [...]The Discerning Traveler » Upgrading from the ‘sardine’ class
by Philip Wagenaar. With difficulty, I entered the jetway, my bags trailing behind me. Gingerly, I stepped over the plane’s threshold. Rows and rows of seats, crammed together like sardines in a can, stared at me. “This can’t be true,” I thought. “Will I really have to be compressed into a chair that is too small, even [...]Mideast and Mediterranean » Shadows of time on Diocaesarea, Turkey
I guess I’m a dinosaur. Though I now have a digital camera, I’m more comfortable with my old Nikon and slide film recording Moreen’s and my travels. Yes, these slides are the basis of my ITN articles, but, more so, they are our memories. When screening slides for my Termessos, Turkey, article (Jan. ’07, pg. 102), [...]Focus on Archaeology » Where Salome shed her veils
by Julie Skurdenis To me, it’s always been one of the most vivid passages in the New Testament. It’s Herod Antipas’ birthday celebration. Salome, his stepdaughter, dances for him. Herod, entranced, swears he will give her anything she asks for. Salome, prompted by her mother, Herodias, who hates John the Baptist because he has denounced her marriage [...]Better Travel Photography » You asked!
by Janet Denninger Thanks to all of you readers who contacted me to let me know you like this column and to share your photographic questions. I do enjoy hearing from you and helping you to make your photos better. What I am learning from you is we all face the same challenges. • A small, wise [...]Report Cards
From London, ENGLAND, Jan. 12, 2007. . . • I took the Caledonian sleeper train (www.britrail.com) from Edinburgh, Scotland, to London, England, on Jan. 11, 2007. The price was $210. I decided to splurge for first class. It was wonderful! The compartment was larger than I had expected and included a sink and a bag of toiletries. Breakfast [...]The trend towards not smoking in Europe
The list below shows the current and planned policies regarding smoking in public in various countries in Europe. Note that in many, various versions of legislation are still being debated and challenged in courts. In general, however, most countries in Europe still allow smoking in bars and restaurants but require separate smoking and nonsmoking sections. Currently, [...]
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