From the October 2006 issue.
My husband, Joe, and I visited Buenos Aires (B.A.), Argentina, in March-April ’06 (Sept. ’06, pg. 84). The restaurants were plentiful and excellent and our dollar went far in ensuring that we could eat well without spending a lot of money, so let’s talk food!
We’re sticklers for going to local places, and we did try several that were recommended on the various websites that we checked before going. We had pizza a few times, and my husband liked the fugazza with the faina. Fugazza is pizza bread with sweet onions and cheese, and faina is a chickpea bread that is ordered with pizza.
• We started off eating close to our hotel (the Claridge at Tucuman 535), going to La Estancia on Lavalle Street, a walking street perpendicular to Florida Street. What a great experience!
Our neighbor at the next table didn’t speak English but cut up a piece of the meat he had and put it on my husband’s plate for him to try. The waiter took my husband over to the grill and showed him the different meats. Everyone was so nice and made it a wonderful experience. Our full meal included a mineral water, a Cabernet ($8), appetizers, the main meal, dessert and coffee. With tip and wine, the cost for two was $35.
Yes, in Buenos Aires the portions of meat are SO large, I usually just ordered the also-enormous salads and shared with Joe.
At every meal in B.A. we had Malbec (an Argentinian varietal wine of the French Malbec grape), tasting different ones each time and also sampling Malbec blended with Cabernet and Merlot.
• We also ate at Cabanas Las Lilas, in Puerto Madero, which had some of the most incredible bread and desserts I ever had. We couldn’t get enough of the small round hot rolls called chippa, which had cheese in them. Yes, the beef was good, but you know that already. Our meal with wine came to $76.
After dinner we walked around the port area and saw all the decorated cows (like the bears in Berlin).
• Cluny, in Palermo Soho, shouldn’t be missed — very chic and right in the midst of Soho. We had a great lunch with wine for $18.
• We thoroughly enjoyed the fresh pasta we had for dinner ($23) at Broccolino (Esmeralda 776; www.broccolino.com.ar), near Florida Street, as we did the Italian food at Los Immortales on Lavalle ($15).
The meal prices I’m quoting are for two people. There were many wonderful restaurants in B.A. which were very inexpensive by U.S. standards.
• We also went to Parillo 1880 (Defensa 1665) in San Telmo and it was as good as all the reviews said. It is truly a local place and not touristy at all. We had a terrific dinner for $25. Don’t forget to have the potato tortilla; it’s great!
• Eating at Lola in the Recoleta district — out on the patio on a sunny day — was also a good choice. It was our last meal in town and we went all out. Joe had a full meal, from appetizer to dessert and including wine, champagne, water and coffee, for $15. The food was not only tasty, it was picture perfect. We found that many of the restaurants we went to served meals with elaborate presentations.
• Café Tortoni was fun to visit, but the food was not special. Better to go for just a cup of coffee.
• Don’t miss La Pasta Frola (Corrientes 1365), which has beautiful pastries and baked goods.
• Volta and Freddo were good places to get ice cream. There is no lack of ice cream or pizza places in B.A.
LINDA LIBERTUCCI, Redondo Beach, CA
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